March 17: Two flea markets and a garden

Posted on March 17, 2013 by ruthek

My first two trips to Japan, back in the 80’s were largely mindless. Most of the time I didn’t know where I was or where I was going. Let’s not even talk about meaning. I bought the cat, above, because I liked it. I didn’t know anything about Japanese art or folk art. I did know about western art, and I liked the cat. It’s been my favorite possession ever since. It bothered me that I did not know where the flea market was where I bought the cat. Each time I’ve been here since I’ve looked for it. I had a vivid memory of the physical space but no knowledge of it. Today I finally found it: the flea market at Yasukuni shrine. When I bought the cat the market was held on the paved driveway leading up to the shrine. Today the market is off to one side and cars are parked in the driveway. I went with the vague hope I might find another cat, but, of course, there wasn’t any. There was some interesting stuff including lots of guitars and taiko drums but I didn’t find anything interesting enough to buy.

As I entered the shrine area I saw people photographing a tree. At first I thought it might be a tree that survived the bombing of Tokyo, which was possible from the look of the tree. Then I found out it was the cherry tree used to determine the dates when Tokyo celebrates the cherry blossom season.

Cherry blossom master

Lanterns and shaped Ginko trees line the driveway.

Often things are not what they seem. I found out about another of those mysteries later in the day.

I was looking for breakfast from the time I left the hotel. I walked all around the Tokyo train station and didn’t find anything I wanted to eat. I walked around Yasukuni looking for something to eat. I didn’t visit the actual shrine or the museum, which I have mixed feelings about, because I was looking for something to eat. I found several interesting looking places outside of the shrine but they didn’t open until 11 am and I didn’t feel like waiting. I got back on the subway and went to the Tokyo International Forum for another flea market.

International Forum antique show

This time I bought an obi I’ll cut up for a book cover. The price was marked 1000 Yen.. I didn’t argue; just gave the vendor a 1000 Yen note. She packaged the obi for me and after she handed it to me she gave me a 100 Yen coin. We both laughed. I guess I should have bargained, but this was more fun. Only in Japan.

Cows dressed up for St. Patrick’s Day in front of the JNTO Information Office.

Still looking for something to eat I walked a short distance to a JNTO Information office. I had two questions, neither of which got good answers. First I wanted to know why seemingly all the young women in Tokyo were lined up outside of the Forum, occasionally moving in great bunches. No good answer to that one. Second, I wanted to know if I could access a wi fi service on the train for one or two months. No answer but a referral to a service that might help. I find I can’t get along without the phone, even though I have no one to call. It’s all that information it gives me. Standing there and talking I got an answer to something I thought about but hadn’t asked because I thought I knew the answer. About one in four or five people here are wearing those white face masks and an equal number sound like they ought to be wearing them. I thought they were all sick with colds or flu and I would probably be next. I started compulsively washing my hands. Well, they are not all sick; they are allergic to cedar pollen and this is the time of year. I am relieved, but who would have thought.

After the info center I finally found a place to eat. Fortified, I got back on the train and went to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Again lots of that light green ground cover, but a great variety of trees and some very nice views. I also found out it may be normal for everything to look dry at this time of year. The rains don’t come for another couple of months. That bit is still bothering me.

All three of them enjoying the fine weather

Full grown tree looking like a bonsai

Blossoms lit up as the sun gets lower

Beginning to blossom

March 16, Kairakuen

Posted on March 16, 2013 by ruthek

Plum blossoms at Kairakuen

At 8:30 last night I was so tired I couldn’t think. I decided I could wait until this morning to write the post. I fell into a sound sleep immediately then woke up at 3:39, wide awake. I took some time to organize my photos but tried to go back to sleep. Finally, at 6, with the sun coming up in my window, I’ve given up. It was a day full of adventures, some known as getting lost, others as not paying enough attention to details..

First, the garden. Kairakuen is classified as one of the three top gardens in Japan, the only one I hadn’t visited. It is located east of Tokyo and at the edge of the tsunami area from 2011, but seems to have suffered little or no damage.

Quoting from the brochure:

Kairakuen was built for not only feudal lords or feudal warriors but also for commoners. Therefore the design incorporates characteristics from modern parks as well as formal Japanese landscape gardens.

In early spring about 100 different types of plum trees bloom with a total of 3000 flowers making Kairakuen one of the three most famous parks of Japan.

It was created in the 1800’s by the ninth (and last) feudal lord of the Mito clan, Nariaki Tokugawa , who may have been motivated as much by the problems faced by the soon to crumble Tokugawa rulers as by any inherent altruism or generosity.

In addition to acres of plum trees the park has a small cedar forest with wonderful old trees, a bamboo grove and cherry blossoms. There is a structure called the Kobuntei and a tea house.

Cedar Forest

Bamboo Grove

This is the time of the plum blossom festival, ume matsuri. My original plan was to go on Tuesday, hoping it would be less crowded than on the weekend. As I watched the temperature rise in Japan I became worried about how long the blossoms would last, so I decided to go there first. There were plenty of blossoms, which have a lovely fragrance. They are beautful flowers, but small and with limited coverage of each branch, unlike the cherry blossoms that give the impression of being all over the tree.

Plum trees in the distance

As you can see the trees are planted with lots of space around them. The ground looked barren to me until I realized I was walking on a ground cover of pine needles. The festival includes an opportunity to attend a mammoth tea ceremony. The woman in the center is showing how to make the tea. Actual bowls of tea to drink are brought from a tent behind her. Each person is presented with a bowl, along with much bowing. The bowl is removed after a reasonable time for drinking, again with much bowing.

Tea Ceremony

Another long line was to have your picture taken with some people in costume. I’m not sure who they represented.

At the top of a gentle hill were several vendors selling perfume (plum blossom?), those ubiquitous gift boxes I am convinced line the closets of every home in Japan and another long line; this time to enter the Kobuntei, the structure built by Nariaki to entertain writers, artists and residents of his domain, where he would have poetry composing parties and other events. I don’t like standing in line but I got in that one and enjoyed seeing the building and the garden surrounding it.

Views from the Kobuntei

I did a lot of walking. There is an elevated train station very close to the hotel. Originally I walked right past it since it looks like just another building. When I finally found it I had to climb several flights of stairs to get to the station, which is old, several blocks long and might have an escalator or elevator at the other end. I knew the train was close and when I booked the hotel I thought I might be able to take the train , walk to the hotel and avoid a taxi ride. Reality hit when I arrived on Friday night. The airport train takes you to Tokyo station, a huge transfer point for many local trains. I would have had to transfer twice from there. Remember, I am dragging two suitcases on wheels, one in each hand. I found the nearest exit and got in the first taxi. I had a printout of the reservation that had some Japanese on it, but not enough. The taxi driver couldn’t figure out where to go. He finally stopped at a police box and got directions. It cost me about $14 and might have been the best $14 I ever spent. I never would have made it to the hotel with all those stairs.

I am ready to face my Sunday adventures, so more of all this later.

Six more days organized

Posted on January 15, 2013 by ruthek

Korakuen, in Okayama

The January thaw ended yesterday without the promised rain or snow. Yesterday and today are more nearly normal; temps in the 30’s, but very pleasant. I’m enjoying walking.

Back to travel plans: I leave Atami by train, using my 21 day railpass, and going to Okayama where I have booked a hotel for three nights. My primary destination will be Korakuen, one of the top three and a garden I visited in 2008 and didn’t love. Maybe spring will be better. Okayama is on the Seto Inland Sea where several islands have become major contemporary art destinations. I plan to go to the art house project and Benesse House on Naoshima, Inujima Island and an art festival on these islands, which were originally industrial sites that have been recycled.

From Okayama I will go to Fukuoka on the other large island, Kyushu, where there are several interesting destinations. Haven’t booked a hotel yet, so that’s next.

January thaw

Posted on January 13, 2013 by ruthek

Nine mile run, January thaw

With the temperature in the 60’s today I was drawn back to Nine Mile Run. I was hoping to take a good long walk but there was still lots of snow on the trail so I didn’t go further than the wooden path. I am still cautious about falling; even with my walking stick I didn’t feel secure.

Mostly I went to take pictures. When I posted the picture that appears in my new year post I remembered I had taken one more that seems to have disappeared. Looking at the previous day’s pictures I knew some of them were missing also. I don’t know whether I did something wrong (always a possibility), the camera wasn’t working right, or something was wrong with the memory card. The only thing I can check is the memory card, so I bought a new one and that’s what I am using. I plan to take many more pictures in the next few weeks. I don’t want to find out I’ve lost any of my Japanese photos.

Changing habits

Posted on January 5, 2013 by ruthek

Taiz0-in, one of my favorite gardens

I live about a half mile from the wonderful Carnegie Library. To drive, you have to go about a mile, parking is expensive and usually not available, so needless to say, I walk. I usually wear my purse with the shoulder strap across my chest and sometimes after I walk the half mile and have started back, I have a backache. Yesterday, I took my phone, some money and my library card and left the purse at home. No backache! Today I ordered a belly bag, practicing for Japan. I don’t know how it will look sitting on my already ample belly, but if it enables me to keep walking, who cares.

Trip planning: I am stuck in Tokyo. I would like my next stop to be Hakone, where there is both an indoor and outdoor museum. Atami, which is supposed to have a great museum, is also nearby. Hotels in the area are very expensive. All of this can be done as day trips from Tokyo, so the question is, do I stay for another two days in the hotel I have already booked in eastern Tokyo or do I move to western Tokyo? If I wasn’t on a budget, all of this would be much easier, but much less challenging.

New York first week

Posted on August 7, 2012 by ruthek

Can’t believe I’ve been here a week already. Yesterday was the day I came for; the first of two visits to my contact lens practitioner. I have problems with my vision. I had a series of appointments with a specialist in Pittsburgh who ultimately did nothing for me. An hour and a half with my wonderful New York doctor and I think I’m on the right road. I go back to her tomorrow.

So, Mage, I’ll tell you what I’ve been doing. I arrived last Wednesday to a hot, humid, rain-soaked day and did much of nothing. Renee made dinner for us and our only activity was to go for a walk after dinner when the rain stopped.

On Thursday we went to the Asia Society and saw the work of two Chinese artists, one very modern, the other contemporary over a lifespan of ninety years. The real hit of the exhibits was work by grade school children inspired by a previous show.

Renee was supposed to go on a trip, leaving on Friday. She canceled the trip because her brother was having surgery on Thursday. After a great lunch and some partially productive shopping she went to the hospital and I came back to the apartment with my purchases, rested briefly and then went to the hospital to sit with J while the surgery was happening.

Friday I got to the Whitney about eleven and found out it didn’t open until one. I walked over to the Met and saw a wonderful show about Japanese Rinpa art. From there I took a badly needed long bus ride down Fifth Ave. to the Center for Book Arts. This is the place that makes me want to cry because I don’t live here. I think I would spend all my time there. I will write much more about it later. It gave me lots to think about.

Here is a photo from Sunday’s street fair. I’ll finish the week in my next post.

No apologies

Posted on March 9, 2012 by ruthek

I hate to admit it but I’ve been busy on Facebook. They finally got my attention. I don’t love Facebook, and I’m not sure I fully understand it, but several weeks ago, about the time Scott Walker was busy alienating unions in Wisconsin, I found a group called “One Million Pissed Off Women.” I realized I have been pissed off since I was about 10 years old and discovered my brother had better toys than I did. I won’t go into detail but be assured I was convinced at an early age that boys/men had it better than girls/women. I joined the group. Next I found myself fighting against the war on women. All of this keeps me very busy reading and sometimes talking to other women about it. I’m planning to march with them. I think it’s about time someone did it.

I’ve also been busy working on my move. I am buying a condominium located between University of Pittsburgh and Carnegie Mellon. I’ll be able to walk to all my classes, lots of restaurants and many events in the area. I won’t close on the apartment until the middle of next month and won’t actually move until the end of May. I’ve begun clearing things out of this apartment. I gave a porchful of stuff to the Vietnam Vets. I’m working on a large stack of books that I hope will go to a used bookstore. I’m losing my two built-in bookcases from this apartment and no replacements in the new one. I have some ideas about what I’d like to do in the apartment, like getting rid of some of the wallpaper and changing some of the lighting. I’ll try to keep posting as things happen.

Disappointment

Posted on February 9, 2012 by ruthek

Sometimes delusions are so comforting we cling to them even though we know better. So this delusion was that I could get glasses and stop wearing contact lenses. My misshapen corneas are smoothed out by hard contact lenses and my vision can be corrected to 20/25. For years I’ve been told I can’t get glasses, or rather, my nose wasn’t large enough to carry the thickness of the lenses I would need. Two years ago my contact lens provider was able to give me a prescription for glasses, but the refraction was done immediately after I removed the lenses. My corneas were still reshaped by the contacts. After a day or two the glasses didn’t work. So I’ve gone without the lenses for the last week. I can see fairly well in bright sunshine so I’ve been able to walk around easily most days. (Pittsburgh has been unusually sunny this winter.) Today I happily walked into Squirrel Hill for an appointment with another optometrist, thinking I would order glasses and wear the contacts only occasionally.

The poor optometrist. I probably ruined his day. He gave me a referral to someone else and now I have to decide if I’m willing to go through it all again.

More New York

Posted on February 4, 2012 by ruthek

In addition to the last two doctor’s appointments we spent time doing some fun things. Steve is a big Dickens fan. Before he returned to Pittsburgh, we went to the Morgan Library to see their Dickens exhibit: a really great show. The last time I visited the Morgan was just after their famous architect enclosed their buildings in a glass shell. It was mobbed with all the other people who wanted to see what the FA had done, and it was unbearably noisy. I hesitated to return, but this visit was quiet and very pleasant. We also viewed a show of Persian art and enjoyed J.P.’s original office and library. I would like to own all those books and have my own librarian.

On our last day Robin and I went to Chelsea Market and walked on the High line. This was Robin’s first visit to both places and she loved it. We walked the entire park on this beautiful, amazingly warm day. Before our walk we fortified ourselves with a salad and sandwich from Amy’s Bread. Also bought some to take home; not nearly enough. Maybe it was the bread that set off the alarms when I went through security.

I’m back to my usual Pittsburgh routine, taking Osher classes and looking for another place to live. Robin is continuing to make great progress.

And a great time was had

Posted on December 12, 2011 by ruthek

This trip to New York was very special. In addition to many of my usual favorite things I spent much of the time with old friends whom I haven't seen for many years. Our first activity was a tour of the Tenement Museum. It was particularly interesting in light of our current immigration discussions. Amazing how each generation of Americans easily forgets parents or grandparents who made the extraordinary effort to get here, many of them undocumented, how they were harassed and maligned after they arrived, and how they contributed to the rich life we now embrace and would be better off with more of their values.

My friends are Israelis. We met them just as they came out of the Israeli army and came to Chicago to go to University of Illinois. They remained long enough to get a PhD, have two children and become highly contributing American citizens. Then they returned to Israel and I've seen them only a few times since, each being a special pleasure.

We went to the Met (and I went a second time), to the Japan Society, to the High Line, and to the most amazing play, War Horse. The play is done with puppets, although not what we usually think of as puppets. They are life size; each horse controlled by three people. When they come on stage you know they are puppets, no attempt is made at deception, but you believe deep inside they are real and you are (I was) overwhelmed by their presence. Everything in the play conveys the story. Nothing is extraneous. It is all immensely moving. I plan to see the movie when it comes out at the end of the month, but I'm sure it won't be the same.

I came back to Pittsburgh with a walnut bread from Eataly, tea from Kalustyan and a nasty cough. I never got to the book party on Sunday; decided not to spread the germs. I just finished the book and will have pictures next post.

100 Books Before I Die

Ruthe Karlin

Category Archives: Walking