April 3 and 4: Imperial Palace and Daitokuji

Posted on April 4, 2013 by ruthek

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I arrived at Kyoto Station to absolute chaos; crowds of people milling around in every direction clearly not knowing where to go. These were Western crowds; Japanese crowds always have a direction. I couldn’t remember exactly where to go but finally found the tourist office and armed with maps figured out which subway to take and got out of there.

It was not a nice day: chilly and threatening rain that never came. I left my suitcase at the hotel and went for a long walk, finally stopping for lunch in a Thai restaurant. More walking, stopping at a kind of supermarket and picking up some stuff for dinner, then walking back to the hotel through the gardens of the Imperial Palace which are open all the time and even include a children’s playground.

I am staying, as I have on my previous trips, at the Palace Side Hotel, across the street from the Imperial Palace. It’s inexpensive, pleasant and the staff is always helpful and wonderful. They also have laundry and kitchen facilities and a small, guest contributed library. It has a lovely, communal feel to it; not so hotely. The only thing I would change is the restaurant, which is expensive and the last time I tried it, not very good. I would love to be able to eat there but I settle for supermarket stuff in my room.

April 4 brought full sunshine and the opportunity to attend an open house to inside the walls of the Imperial Palace. I did this once before and I’m not interested in the palace itself, but wanted to see the gardens again. There are gardens inside and outside the walls. The entire property is 700 meters wide by 1300 meters long.

Hoping that by coming early I would avoid the crowds I arrived at ten to nine to find a huge crowd already lined up. I waited, they let everyone in and I walked through to the gardens. There are two of them: a wonderful, private garden for the emperor and next to it a wonderful, more public facility. Public in this case means royal family or visitors.

Too many people to really enjoy. I took some pictures but I’ll try to get back again. The open house lasts until April 8. Maybe there will be fewer people if I come toward the end of the day. Also the sun will be in a better position. I was having a hard time seeing what I was actually photographing and I am amazed I got anything. That little camera is great.

Taking a bus and subway I went on to Daitokuji, a large, important temple complex north of the palace where I visited gardens in a couple of the subtemples. There is no cherry-tree viewing here so it was peaceful and pleasant. The gardens were not exceptional but I enjoyed them.

I couldn’t figure out how to get to two of the subtemples and finally decided I had enough. Walking south through a lovely, residential area I came to a shrine with beautiful cherry blossoms and found a place called Art Space CASAne with some tiny books in the window I might have bought had she been open. Now I might have to make my own.

A short bus ride brought me to another supermarket where I bought two oranges, strawberries, some cut pineapple, tomatoes, cooked lotus root, (I make it better) and inari sushi, which is not fish but rice in a tofu skin wrapper. All vegetarian.

April 1 and 2: Ritsurin and Tokoen

Posted on April 3, 2013 by ruthek

April 1

The weather forecast for April 1 and 2 showed first a beautiful day and the second as rainy. With this in mind I put my bag in a locker at the Okayama station and got on the train to visit Ritsurin Park. This is another re-visit. Ritsurin is known as one of the largest and most beautiful parks in Japan, but that wasn’t my impression on my first visit, on December 2, 2008. In fact, this was probably the day I decided to change my return flight and leave early. There didn’t seem to be any reason to stay and look at winter-dreary gardens. Four years and four months later I found the garden beautiful and spent hours walking around. I entered near a field of blossoming cherry trees and families picnicking on the lawn, one of several such celebrations of spring.

Celebrating Spring and cherry blossoms

According to the brochure the park dates back to the early 16^th C. when the lord of Sanuki, Ikoma Takatoshi, commissioned the construction of a garden around South Pond with Mt. Shiun as a backdrop. Successive lords made extensions and improvements until the park was completed in 1745, during the reign of the fifth lord, Yoritaka. In 2003, the park was designated a special beauty spot. One place, called the Shofuda, differs from other rock arrangements and is thought to be one used around the year 1400, probably indicating the place where the present park originated.

Shofuda

Another one of those trees that get me

Gray Heron

Mt. Shuin as borrowed scenery

April 2 rained, as forecast. I remained in the hotel until about 10 am with no pressing need to go anywhere and tired after nine hours of sleep. Outside, I found the rain warm and gentle with no wind. It was not unpleasant. First thing, I went shopping. My camera seems to be draining batteries at an unprecedented rate, possibly because I am taking so many pictures, or possibly because the batteries are getting old. I decided another battery might be a good thing. I went to Bic Camera, a combination of camera, computer and large appliance store with a bit of Costco thrown in. Getting another battery was easy; I just showed them what I had, even managing to get the cheaper knock-off, not the genuine Canon brand.

I decided a museum was the best place on a rainy day and started walking. Not too far along I stopped at Mr. Donut for a surprisingly good cup of coffee and a totally forgettable donut. Fortified, map in hand, I started walking in earnest. Maps are only partially helpful since often there are no street names on the street, or on the map, or the names are not the same. Also, having had previous experience with Japanese maps I am never confident about which way is north, not that I necessarily know which way is north anyhow. So, of course, I turned down the wrong street and walked a considerable distance before stopping and getting directions. Retracing my steps, then going further down another street I came to the Okayama Orient Museum; orient, in this case meaning middle east. They had some lovely stuff, but more important, they were wonderful to me, even taking my wet jacket and hanging it up.

They gave me an Android tablet with info about some of the exhibits. As is so often the case it never told me what I wanted to know. There was an exhibit of beautiful mosaics, similar to things I had seen in Israel, but no information except a map indicating it had come from somewhere around there. I found someone who could read the Japanese and she said they came from Syria. More than that, I never found out.

Nearby, the Prefectural Art Museum had some moderately interesting Japanese art, from the collection of a patron. As with many American museums there was a strong focus on the collector and I found out more about him than I did about the individual work.

The rain had moderated to a light drizzle when I left the museum so I boarded a tram and went to another garden, Tokoen. I knew nothing about it when I entered and no one was there; I just happened to find it on the map. It’s a lovely, small garden built around a pond. I enjoyed the peace and quiet of it in spite of the rain.

Later, I found on the internet, it had been built earlier than Korokuen, the large Okayama garden, as a private villa for relaxation by Tadakatsu Ikeda, head of the Ikeda clan that once ruled over southern portion of Okayama Prefecture. It is now privately owned and costs 400 yen to enter. Because of the rain no one was there to collect. I did feel like I was sneaking in, the way I felt at Yusentei. This is a picture of the sign. If anyone can translate for me, I would appreciate it.

I took the tram back to the train station (my hotel was nearby) and went looking for green stuff to eat. Finally found something I hope was spinach and another tiny salad with lettuce, avocado, a tiny bit of tomato and silken tofu. It came with a tiny bottle of salad dressing. Each of these salads weighed about 100 grams, about three and a half ounces, and cost about $4 each. Green stuff is hard to come by. Earlier, for lunch, I had a nice size bowl of rice flavored with thinly sliced beef (I’ve given up vegetarianism while I’m here), for the same amount of money as one of the salads..

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March 31: Review from a moving train

Posted on April 2, 2013 by ruthek

Moving again, this time back to Okayama for two nights then on to Kyoto where I will remain for most of the rest of the trip. I must admit I am getting tired of all this wandering.

I came to Hiroshima to see only one garden, Shukkeien, which I got to on the day I arrived. It was very crowded, being Saturday and being filled with cherry blossoms. When I walked in I unfortunately picked up a volunteer guide who thought he spoke English. I tried several times to politely get rid of him with no success. Finally, after walking around for some time, I pleaded the need to sit down and was able to tell him I could manage by myself. I realize I like being by myself in a place where I want to absorb my surroundings and to photograph.

Traveling around, looking at gardens outside of major urban centers or temples, I have come to realize how much history these gardens encompass. I knew the concept of creating a garden was very old. But I never thought about their importance as part of Japanese history. The gardens I have been looking at, outside of Kyoto, were created by or for the overlord (daimyo) of the area, used for his entertainment and increased his prestige. I think it might be possible to do a history of Japan based on the creation of gardens.

I don’t know what I had in mind when I decided to spend two nights in Hiroshima, but none of the day trips appealed to me yesterday, so I walked back to Shukkeien, arriving just as it opened, and managed to walk around for another hour, sans crowds and English guide. According to the brochure, the name “literally ‘shrink scenery garden’ expresses the idea of collecting and miniaturizing many scenic views, and according to tradition it is a miniaturized landscape modeled on Xihu (West Lake) in Hangzhou, China.

The garden was destroyed by the A bomb, with the exception of this stone bridge.

Many of the people who were severely wounded by the bomb sought refuge in the garden but no medical help arrived. Their bodies were interred beneath the garden.

I find Hiroshima very difficult. I cannot stop thinking about what happened here, even though it is now a beautiful, modern city whose population seems no different than any other large urban area.

A-bomb dome. Remains as a memorial.

After the garden I visited the Prefectural Art Museum where I was hoping to see crafts done by famous artists, but as is so often the case, very little was on display. I was able to see some interesting contemporary art by Hiroshima artists.

I went back to the hotel to decide what to do next, and eventually went for a long walk in the downtown shopping area. Besides the large department stores that still seem to thrive here there are many covered arcades; just a covered street with no vehicular traffic and shops on both sides. These places are always crowded and seem to thrive. How is it that our attempts at creating such arcades have never succeeded? I seem to have more questions than answers.

March 29 and March 30

Posted on March 30, 2013 by ruthek

Went from very warm yesterday to quite chilly today. I went back to Fukuoka for one more try at Yusentei. First I went to Shofuen, the garden that was closed on Tuesday. It is a small garden in an upscale residential area, built originally as a tea house garden, then taken over by the city. It was an uphill walk from the bus stop and then a steep set of stairs. However the wonderful thing about municipally run enterprises is they often consider people like me and put in an elevator, actually enhancing the experience. Instead of seeing the garden in bits and pieces as you clamber up the stairs it opens to you all at once when the elevator door opens.

Frothy, powdered green tea with sweets. Note the pink sakura

It was noon by the time I arrived and climbing up the hill had tired me, so for the first time, I accepted a bowl of green tea and a sweet, which I was able to eat while sitting on a bench and viewing part of the garden. It was a lovely experience I will probably never repeat but it was nice to try it once.

80 year old maple tree in the center of the garden

After I felt restored I walked around the garden and the teahouse.

Before I began this visit I got detailed instructions for Shofuen and Yustentei from the information desk at the train station. Actually not detailed enough, but I was able to figure out details like which direction I should go on the bus. Two buses and help from passersby I got to Yusentei only to find it closed. This time there was a long letter on the door, I think, explaining the closure, which will probably last for months. I can’t read the writing but I recognize dates. Giving up, I got back on the bus then took the subway back to the train to Kumamoto.

March 30

On the train again, this time heading back toward Kyoto with stops at Hiroshima and Okayama. I can’t believe I have been here two weeks already and have only a few more days of travel before I settle down for most of the remaining three weeks. I shipped my bag directly to Kyoto, taking enough underwear and medications for the next four days. Interesting what becomes important as you grow older.

Had a great day in Shukkeien garden here in Hiroshima. I’ll write about it tomorrow or Monday when I’m on the train again. The rest of this post was written on my way here.

Some casual observations.

Alice, sometimes you must read my mind. I don’t remember writing about how clean it is here, but I think about it. You seldom see papers or plastic bags or anything on the ground. And unlike our cities you don’t see trash containers on every corner. I have walked around all day with junk in my pocket and no place to get rid of it. Every small purchase earns you a receipt. I have learned you don’t have to take them. Then it’s up to the giver to dispose of it. This year smokers seem to be largely confined to smoking areas with cigarette disposal containers. Mostly there aren’t even cigarette butts on the ground.

Besides the receipts, the other nuisance here is the one yen coin. Like our pennies they are mostly useless except in supermarkets where they make you think you are getting a bargain if they take 2 yen off. I now have a pocketful of one yen coins that I save for my supermarket purchases.

One of the wonderful things here is that buses and trams all have change-making machines. They expect you to pay the fare in exact change, but you can use the change machines to break even a 1000 yen bill. All lower denominations are in coins, including the equivalent of $1 and $5. In New York, if you don’t have a Metro card, you have to walk around with a pocket full of change or beg other passengers to help you break dollar bills.

I’m in another largish hotel room with a slightly larger bathroom and I’m getting ready to try out the bed.

March 28: Kagoshima

Posted on March 29, 2013 by ruthek

: Rock picture

: I went down those steps, miserable all the way

: Volcano: borrowed scenery?

Day trip to Kagoshima, the southernmost city in Kyushu. Today is dry and warm, probably warmer than I like. Kagoshima has a a garden, Sengan en, which they say, uses the bay and volcano for borrowed scenery. This one was easy. Got the train and the bus, going and coming, with no trouble and very little waiting. The garden is on a small mountain, I think 650 meters high. The lowest part is filled with restaurants and shopping. The actual garden is off to one side of the shops and I missed it. I was annoyed with all the commerce and I started instead to climb toward the peak.

As you climb the vegetation becomes more wild. It was lovely, but hardly what I would call a garden. I never got to the top, too much climbing on steep rocky stairs. I went up a short way and had trouble getting back down. I hate stairs, did I tell you that? I saw some photos and the area at the top looks like a manicured lawn, a viewpoint for the bay and the volcano.

I met a man coming down from the top and he advised me not to go. Said the steps were very steep. I was happy to take his advice. I think he is the man of my dreams and he will remain only in my dreams since I don’t even know his name. He is British, a mountain climber, going around the world climbing mountains and looking at volcanoes. He is nice looking, has a lovely voice and a polished accent. I expressed some surprise about the amount of time he was taking for this round the world trip and he told me he was 70, retired with a pension and had rented out his house. I was certain he was more like 60 and was with some kind of video or film crew making travel films. He had the looks and the voice for it. This is clearly the guy I want: great shape, interested in everything. Too bad he climbs mountains. That and parachute jumping are among the few experiences I am not willing to try.

My suitcase, filled with dirty laundry was waiting for me when I returned to the hotel. So, back to the mundane; you know what I did all evening.

March 27: Kumamoto

Posted on March 28, 2013 by ruthek

I liked Fukuoka and I’m sorry I didn’t schedule more time there. Today was my day to move again, but just 45 minutes down the train track. It rained most of the day, a light, drizzly kind of rain with a comfortable temperature. I checked in to the new hotel, which wouldn’t let me get into the room until 3 pm. That is the rule.

I particularly wanted to see one garden here: Suizenji koen, and decided to go there, rain or no. The first sight of the park is jaw dropping. When I get back to my other computer I’ll try to put together the photos above to show the entire first view. That said, I probably liked this park less than most of the others I’ve seen. Too many fake mountains, which are supposed to represent the 53 stations of the Tokaido Road.

Many gardens represent scenery from far away places (in Japan or, occasionally China). Travel was a hardship so the wealthy could dream of travel in their gardens (and also compose poems about these famous places). This garden was begun as a tea garden by the feudal lord of the area in 1636 and took about 80 years to complete.

Monument to the two daimyos who built the garden. The woman bowed deeply to each one and stood there for a long time.

Never finished yesterday. So tired I was asleep by 10 and slept soundly until 4:30. then wide awake, but finally went back to sleep until 7:30.

More cherry blossoms

On my way back to the hotel I stopped in the food department of a large department store near the tram station and bought stuff for my supper: three pieces of inari sushi, rice wrapped in a tofu skin; some dark green vegetable that might be spinach, and a container of slightly fermented cucumber, as in kimchi. I like that stuff, but inadvertently bought way too much. I’ll be eating every night here. There are vegetables, but it’s hard to find spinach, broccoli, and the other stuff I usually eat. I’m still concerned about my coumadin count, but I’m not showing any black marks yet. I guess I can always get a blood test.

After my vegetarian supper I wanted something sweet. I inquired about supermarkets and was given a map and some directions; then started walking. I found another covered walkway with lots of different kinds of shops, including something called Land of Markets that had some exotic stuff like cheese and another place called Swiss Konditorei. I’m never sure what the names mean, but this looked good. Unfortunately I had already made my purchase. Maybe I’ll go back tonight.

This is the largest hotel room I’ve had since I arrived, and it has the tiniest bathroom. Sometimes I feel like a giant here; I almost don’t fit on the toilet and getting in and out of the tub is an adventure in itself. It feels like there is no room to fall but I’m sure I could kill myself if i’m not careful.

Alice, you remarked about the efficiency of the Japanese. The trains run on time, even the buses and trams keep to a schedule. Problems arise when you don’t ask the right questions, or you don’t know what questions to ask. I asked how to get to the garden and was given exact directions. I didn’t ask if the garden was open, because my experience has been that gardens don’t close. Unlike museums, they are almost all open every day. As for information from websites I should know it isn’t reliable. But sometimes I don’t know how to ask.

March 25 and March 23

Posted on March 25, 2013 by ruthek

Another travel day. Shipped my larger bag to the next hotel then pulling the overnighter I walked to the train station. I was going to take a taxi but figured the exercise would be good. Since I made it in 20 minutes it’s probably less than a mile. I arrived at the station earlier than necessary and got the rest of my train reservations, using a newly created list that reflected a few changes. After that five hour train ride last week I decided I couldn’t face another one. Instead of going from Hiroshima to Matsuyama on the island of Shikoku, which would involve a long ferry trip and an even longer train trip on a slow train, I am going back to Okayama from Hiroshima and will see the two gardens on Shikoku as day trips from Okayama. Now I am headed for Fukuoka on Kyushu, the other large island of Japan. It’s only about two hours which is good.

Back to Saturday’s gardens. As I visit these gardens I am still questioning what attracts me most about them, why the Japanese designate some a most important and why I don’t always agree. There are three kinds of gardens, zen gardens made almost entirely from rocks and gravel, gardens made to be viewed from inside a structure and gardens made for strolling. I am not so fond of the zen gardens; it is the other two that interest me. Saturday’s gardens, Korakuen and Shurakuen are both stroll gardens. I visited Korakuen, considered one of Japan’s top three, in 2008 and found it somewhat disturbing. The garden was built for the pleasure of a daimyo. There are rice fields, tea fields, a lot of open lawn, an archery space, a place for training horses and a small, ugly aviary where they house half a dozen cranes. The cranes bother me the most and I am not so fond of all the open space.

Okayama Castle: borrowed scenery for the garden

House with water running through it.

The second garden, Shurakuen, required an hour train trip inland and through the mountains to Tsuyama. Then I couldn’t figure out where to go from the guide map so I hired a taxi. Originally three times larger than the present site, this garden was created in the 17^th C. and is a pond stroll garden, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Each few steps presented a different picture. This is what I look for.

When it was time to leave I wanted another taxi but finally just started walking. It turned out my $10 taxi ride took me less than two kilometers, an easy walk. I think the price was high because of the waiting time at stop lights, not because they were out to get me.

When I arrived back at the hotel I met an English speaker, a Mexican who is working on a PhD in biophysics in Australia and who is a zen priest. He was eating his dinner in the hotel lounge while doing laundry and I sat and talked with him for probably two hours. He was fascinating and the first person I had a real conversation with in more than a week..

I arrived in Fukuoka before 11 am and spent about an hour in the station getting help from the information people and having lunch. I was advised to take a subway to my hotel, but one of the gardens I want to see was not far so I walked there and then walked to the hotel.Totally wiped out I’ve been working on this post and tomorrows plans. Eventually I’ll go out and get something to eat.

Rakusuien

The garden, called Rakusuien, is a beautiful, very small pond garden with a waterfall and an attached tea house. I was invited to have tea, but it would have meant sitting on the floor so I demurred. I did go in to look at it and as I entered a small wedding party also came in. The strange part is that I think they were the same party I saw at Korakuen. Maybe I was dreaming.

Wedding party at Korakuen, or is this an advertising photo shoot?

The gardener took my picture.

March 24: All at sea

Posted on March 24, 2013 by ruthek

This is not going to be a nice review. For a much more positive portrait of this place, go here.

I never wrote up yesterday so I’ll save it for tomorrow’s train ride and deal with today while it’s still fresh in my mind. Yesterday was two good gardens will be mostly pictures.

Today I took a trip to Naoshima a nearby island, requiring two short train trips and a ferry. Read about the town and some of its industry here. The town bus, costing 100 Yen, met the ferry and took us to the ticket center and waiting area for Chichu museum where a long line was waiting. Before I go on, I have to say I hate waiting in line. Standing is not good for my legs or my soul and I work to avoid it; meaning I don’t often stand in any lines. But I got in this one and listened uncomprehending to a young man giving a long speech in Japanese. When the line moved and I finally got to him his nametag said bilingual guide and he told me, in English, he was giving me a slip of paper with a time on it, 45 minutes ahead, and at that time, and for the following 30 minutes, I would be allowed to buy a ticket to enter the museum.

Some of you who read my blog also read Ronni Bennett’s wonderful blog where she invokes crabby old lady. I am not so polite: today I was bitchy old lady. And that was only the beginning.

I waited the 45 minutes, grumbling under my breath, and finally paid my 2000 Yen (about $22) and walked over to the museum, where after climbing a steep incline and then taking an elevator, I was informed I would have to wait again to get into the Monet room. The museum, designed by Tadeo Ando, is large with lots of empty reinforced concrete corridors and entirely underground but all the work is illuminated with natural light, allowing you to see it under different lighting, according to the brochure. Maybe when the clouds move fast, but I can’t imagine standing around waiting, no seats, and all those people in line behind you. This museum has work by only three artists: James Turrell, Walter de Maria and Monet. So I stand in line, take my shoes off and put on slippers then finally get in to see the five Monet water lilies. How many water lilies did he paint? I’ve seen them in Paris, Chicago, New York and even Pittsburgh has one. These were not the best water lilies I ever saw, but they were certainly the most carefully displayed.

So, what next? I could go and stand in line to see the Turrell. I don’t know anything about his work, but the thought of one more line did me in. I went to the de Maria where there was no line and then, carefully filling in their satisfaction survey, I left. The best part of the museum, for me, was a kind of Monet garden along the path leading to the museum. These pictures are from the garden.
There are two more museums at only 1000 Yen each, but I skipped them and walked around outdoor sculpture by Nikki Saint Phalle along the beach. No waiting.

I got back on the bus, which was waiting for me for a change, and went to the art houses. This is a group of widely spaced houses that had been abandoned or falling down and were renovated (?) and made into works of art. After paying another 1000 Yen I was told I would have to get a ticket and then there would be an hour and a half wait to see another Ando/Turrell creation. And I had to walk to said creation in order to get the ticket. Can you see the steam coming off the top of my head?
I got the ticket which was actually for 3 o’clock, two hours later, then walked around to see the other houses.

The idea is fascinating, in principle. One of the museums in Pittsburgh does something similar and I think more interesting. This house, which had been a dental clinic, was given an intriguing floor and housed this funky almost Statue of Liberty I wasn’t supposed to photograph. Couldn’t resist.

I never saw the Ando/Turrell masterpiece. About 2 pm, having walked or stood from about 9:30, I got on the bus, went back to the port and made the ferry/train trip. Now I’m doing laundry. The moment of truth, or dirt, had come.

Nikki St Phalle Cat

Me, in one of the pieces on the beach

3 weeks organized

Posted on February 5, 2013 by ruthek

Orchids @ Phipps

I just finished selecting hotels for my first three weeks. I arrive in Tokyo on March 15 and stay for five nights, visiting several gardens in Tokyo and one of the “top three” in Mito, a day trip north and east of Tokyo. March 20, two nights in Atami, then one night in Okayama and on to Fukuoka in Kyushu, for two nights. My next stop is Kumamoto, also in Kyushu, for three nights, which will include a day trip to Kagoshima. My original intention to get to Nagasaki has been scrubbed because the time doesn’t work out and I’m not sure there is a garden I want to see.

From Kumamoto I return to Honshu and stop overnight in Hiroshima to see another garden. Then I will take a ferry across to Shikoku and stay overnight in Matsuyama to see another garden then across Shikoku to Takamatsu for another garden. That will be April 3, my 21-day railpass will be almost finished and my stay in Kyoto will begin.

What do we do next?

Posted on January 21, 2013 by ruthek

Yesterday I saw the documentary, Chasing Ice. It’s probably the most beautiful and the scariest film I’ve ever seen.

In the spring of 2005, acclaimed environmental photographer James Balog headed to the Arctic on a tricky assignment for National Geographic: to capture images to help tell the story of the Earth’s changing climate. Even with a scientific upbringing, Balog had been a skeptic about climate change. But that first trip north opened his eyes to the biggest story in human history and sparked a challenge within him that would put his career and his very well-being at risk.

The film is so important it should be required viewing for every member of Congress and every person in the country. People who are skeptical about global warming and all employees of oil, gas and coal companies should be required to view it twice. View the trailer, go to the website, see the film and you will understand why I found it so scary. We are surely destroying the world we live in and no one seems to care.

100 Books Before I Die

Ruthe Karlin

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