Home Again

I’m back from Japan; got in late last night after a 36 hour day. After more than six months of planning, my one month trip went very quickly. I’m feeling a little deflated; I can’t believe it’s over. I have a lot more to say and lots of pictures to post, as soon as I finish going through the mail to make sure my electricity won’t be shut off.

One of the things I missed in Japan was the beautiful fall color in the trees. Because of our changing climate most of the colors were late this year. But I woke up this morning to this scene in my back yard,Dsc06467
and just down the street I found more wonderful color.

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This is it!

I’ll be picked up in about half an hour. Everything is finished and ready, or as ready as I ever get. I was able to close my suitcase. I think I packed everything I will need. I’m flying to Chicago today. I’ll have dinner with Betty and Carol, and spend the night with Carol. Tomorrow I’ll have breakfast with Al and Phyllis, then on to Tokyo. For the next month I’ll be posting at Japan on my Mind. Come and visit me there.

Eight more days

One week and one day before I leave for Japan, and now I’m getting excited. Most of my classes are finished. My audit class, Art of China, continues through December. I’ll go to two more classes next week, and there will be three more after I return. I’m missing the time period that interests me the most, Tang Dynasty. I’m hoping I’ll have another opportunity to take the class–I confess, I haven’t given it as much attention as usual.

I am still working on my itinerary, but most of it is filled in. I have hotel rooms booked for the first three of the four weeks. I just haven’t decided how much of that last week I want to spend in Tokyo. My alternatives are Matsue, Nikko and Yonezawa.

I am keeping a detailed record of my planning in another blog, which I will use to record my trip as I travel.

Day Twelve: Shirley Sun, again

I couldn’t fall asleep last night, or I should say, this morning. I was reading until 12:30, my eyes were tired but the brain kept going. At 1:30 am, I got out of bed, went to the computer, and paid a couple of bills I had been trying to forget about: out of sight, out of mind. I don’t know when I finally fell asleep, but I had a hard time getting started this morning.

Shirley Sun was waiting for me under the gaze of Confucius, and we went to 27 Seafood, down the street. We had a fairly good conversation this time, better than last week. She told me about her business, showed me some of the advertising she sold, and spent a lot of time talking about different kinds of tea. I wish I could spend more time with her and help her improve her English.

My second stop was the Japan Tourist Bureau to buy my Japan Railpass. I now have all of my frequent flier miles and $525 invested in my upcoming trip. I still don’t know where I will be staying, and I’m becoming uncomfortable about it.

After all that I came back to the apartment. My lack of sleep is catching up with me, so I will beg off going out to dinner tonight.

New York, Day One

It was raining and warm when we left Pittsburgh yesterday; New York was raining and cold: 63 degrees. It actually felt good after all the heat and humidity. Today the air was washed clean, the sky an intense blue with no clouds and it’s still relatively cool. I walked over to the Metropolitan early this morning. It was amazingly uncrowded. Usually there are so many people on the stairs it’s hard to get in.

The first thing I did was go up to the roof garden, which was still cool and peaceful. The air was so clear you could see details on the buildings on Central Park West. I took a number of pictures but I won’t be able to post them until I get home, since I didn’t take the necessary cabling and I don’t want to put too much stuff on Renee’s computer.

There was an exhibit of Frank Stella sculpture, heavy kind of aggravating stuff more suited to a blustery fall day. I walked through the new Greek and Roman galleries. They are beautiful, but, much as I hate to admit it, I’m really not interested in Greek and Roman art. I think it’s not so much a matter of interest as of stamina. My legs won’t hold out for more than a few hours at a museum so I feel I must make choices about what I will see. African art is located next to the Greek and Roman and I find that more interesting. Actually, there is so much African art it could be a museum all by itself. Also looked at a charming, small exhibit called One of a Kind: The Studio Craft Movement. That one could have been twice as large and I would have been twice as happy.

My legs finally told me they weren’t going much further so I walked over to the bus stop. I don’t know how many times I’ve been at that stop and never noticed the amazing aluminum art deco trim on the building across the street. That’s the wonderful part about New York: it is so rich there is always something new or something you hadn’t noticed before. (picture to come)

Nostalgia

I have been immersed in information about Japan as I prepare for my trip in October. Since I am not going on a tour I have to make all of my own arrangements. It’s a lot of work. In order to maintain the mood I decided to reread The Tale of Genji instead of the mystery potboilers I usually read at bedtime. The book has been on my shelves forever. What I did not expect was that it would open a Pandora’s box of memories and questions, or should I say forgetories.

I thought I first read the book when I lived in California from 1957 to 1959, where, largely due to the influence of a friend, Jean Rosenstein, I first became interested in Japanese and Hawaiian culture.  I had been interested in China since 1947 when I had a pen pal from Shanghai but it was impossible to think about China in 1959; Japan was making a great PR effort to reach out to us and seemed so accessible.

I clearly recollect discussing the book with Jean, but last night I saw that the copyright was 1960. So this discussion had to have been by letter, or perhaps on one of the visits we made to each other. We returned to Chicago in 1959 and a few years later Max and Jean returned to Adrian, Michigan, her home town. So now I want to know when we discussed the book and what happened to Max and Jean and their 5 kids who were mostly older than Robin.

I don’t usually look back. I have enough going on in the present to keep me occupied. And one of the sad things about getting older is that friends who were even older may well be only memories and questions remain unanswered.

Travel Below

Not to Australia but up to Tarentum and down into a coal mine. As the tour began Linda and I had similar reactions: did we really want to do this? Last_roll_11
But it turned out to be fascinating. The hard part was going down to the mine. Getting into the little train cars was not a great thing for us ladies of a certain age; getting out was worse. You don’t really feel like you’re going down, the grade isn’t very steep, but it was a long bumpy ride, and they say we went a half mile below ground. An old miner, older than us, explained the coal mining process and showed us how it changed over the years. What a terrible, dangerous job it was a hundred years ago. It’s hard to imagine that conditions in Eastern Europe were worse than working in a mine; that miner’s work was attractive to them. Last_roll_04
There is also a museum with a broad collection of ephemera from the early 1900s. I found an etching of Pittsburgh in 1905 and saw, for the first time, a drawing of Grant’s Hill.Last_roll_01It’s in there behind the downtown buildings.

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A Hollywood stage set entry to the mine. It was all so old it had a kind of authenticity, even though it was only a facade.Last_roll_06
This log cabin belonged to the mine owner’s father (?) and was moved to the site.

Travelin’ Woman

I ordered my ticket to Japan; I finally committed to flying in the middle of October. I also got a ticket for New York in the middle of August, and yesterday, Linda and I drove to India in West Virginia. Amazing what you can see here in the US.

We went to New Vrindaban, a religious community set in the hills about two hours from Pittsburgh. After driving almost an hour on winding two lane roads we came to another world. First, you see the Palace of Gold, a monument to the founder of the Hare Krishna movement, Sri Prabhupada.  We took a tour of the temple and walked around the rose garden. Then we got back in the car and drove a short distance, past a lake, to the temple. New_vrindaban_13
We were encouraged to walk around even though prayers were in progress. Many people seemed to come and go, and many spoke to us and helped us to understand the prayers and symbols in the temple. But I suspect it would take the rest of my life to fully understand. One altar particularly fascinated me:
Jaganath_Baladev_Subadhra. I have not been able to find anything about these images. See a picture here. Maybe I have to go back there.

A vegetarian lunch was served at the conclusion of the activities in the temple. I could eat like that every day. Linda and I went back to the Palace of Gold for another look around. I took pictures I will put in a New Vrindaban album.

Home Again

I came home last night after four great days of art on the road. On Tuesday, after Tai Chi, I drove to Columbus. As I drove through Washington PA, about an hour out, I realized I had left my carefully researched driving instructions at home. As often happens to me, I was trying to carry one thing too many. This wasn’t a big deal, but it meant I didn’t get to one of the exhibits and I had to call Jan for more directions. I wanted to go to two places in Columbus, the Riffe gallery and the art museum. Gallery closed at 4, I arrived in Columbus at 3:40. If I had the directions I would have made it. I went directly to the museum, noted on the map, and spent an hour walking around. Small but nice, with lots of artists I knew about but hadn’t seen in many years, in other words, they are not fashionable. There was a large exhibit about George Bellows, a Columbus native, and Elijah Pierce, an Ohio folk artist.

I drove another hour after I left the museum and got off the highway at Kings Island, where I stayed in a largely empty motel. I suppose they are only busy when the amusement park is open. I wasn’t particularly happy about staying there, but I was tired and it seemed like I was in the middle of nowhere. Had dinner in a restaurant I would not recommend. I thought I had eaten in one of them at Gettysburg that was quite acceptable, but maybe I was remembering a different place.

The next morning I went to the Cincinnati Art Museum. When I drove there last fall I did not take the time to look at anything but the Japanese print show. This time I walked through most of the museum. Their featured show was Andrew Wyeth, which I didn’t look at. Another featured show was Richard Pousette-Dart. I’m still thinking about it. The most interesting thing I saw were two works classified as folk art, by L. A. Roberts, an unknown artist. The work found in a Cincinnati neighborhood called Over-the-Rhine. 

I really love that museum: beautiful space, a good collection, very pleasant. And they devote a lot of space to Cincinnati artists. I really began to think about this compared to the Art Institute. It’s a world class museum whose only connection to the city is made by the Chicago collectors who donate work. I don’t know if they show any Chicago artists, certainly none are featured; there are no Chicago rooms, as there are Cincinnati rooms.  That stimulated a lot of thought about art, with the Pousette-Dart challenging me to think about abstraction. Maybe someday I’ll come to terms with all of it. One of the artists showing with Jan, Carolann Freid, does conceptual installations, another facet of art that I feel needs more thought from me.

In the early afternoon, I got to Georgetown, the important part of the trip, and went with Jan over to the gallery for her artist’s talk. I spent a lot of time looking at the show and came back a second time, on Thursday. I wish I could go again; it’s a good, thought-provoking show. Several of Jan’s friends were already at the gallery. I’m pleased for her that she is getting so much attention. The artists’ talk was open to the public, but was actually scheduled for an art class from the college. The students were expected to ask questions as part of their grade, so there was a somewhat lively discussion after the talks.

Carolann Freid, the conceptual artist, had a lot to say about her part of the show. Ann Leader, ceramist, is into process, particularly accidents within process; her forms easily drew me in and I enjoyed her work.

Jan’s work is really two-fold: mostly serious photos taken with infrared film, and a hilarious story board about the difficulties of moving 17 cows. The work is easily accessible but slightly mysterious. I really loved it.

We went to a photography show in Lexington on Thursday: Kodachromes from the WPA projects. Most of these were shot in 1938-39 by the same photographers who shot the black and white you often see. These were taken shortly after Kodachrome became available; good stuff. Returning to Georgetown we looked at the Japanese Garden Garden1
and the Jacobs collection at Georgetown College. The rest of the time we ate and talked. Lots of art, lots of talk, lots to think about.