A Going back day

The deliciously cool morning inspired me to walk back to the Jewish Museum to see some things I had missed because we went on a Saturday the first time. There is a wonderful, interactive, computer created tour of the two apartments of the Cone sisters. The tour was created from 37 photos taken within the apartments before the paintings and other collections were given to the Baltimore Art Museum. I was fascinated both by the look of the apartments, much classier and well organized than I expected, and by some of the strange views generated by the computer process. Although I watched for a long time I was never sure I had seen all of it. I tried some of the interactive features: a touch screen and the possibility of asking questions, but mostly I just let it run and watched it.

I went back to the Center for Book Arts, where I had taken Phyllis yesterday. They had a tunnel book in their exhibit and I needed to look at it again. You can see it here, but the picture doesn't really let you see the tunnel part of it or understand how it was constructed. In the exhibit it sat on the light box allowing the depth of the piece and more of what was going on inside to be seen clearly. The two wings fold in toward the proscenium arch; there are at least three layers of images behind the arch, and the enire thing folds up into a bound book. Very inspiring; I was glad I returned to it.

By the way, I found it much easier to walk around today with the cooler weather and probably covered more than 2 miles on foot.

Yesterday, after our visit to the Center for Book Arts, Phyllis and I went to Eataly, an enormous, expensive, Italian-focused, touristy food market/restaurant where I was able to get a walnut, whole wheat bread. Most of the time walnut breads contain raisins or dried cranberries. Every time I find a new bakery I look for walnut breads–only walnuts, no raisins or cranberries. I first discovered this in France, subsequently found it in Montreal, and a small restaurant in Eagle, Wisconsin, long gone, and, of course, other parts of Europe. It was lovely to find it here. I may go back tomorrow to get another one to take home with me.

Rainy Sunday

I woke up to a gray, rainy morning and thought about spending the day in bed. That got boring pretty quick so as the rain lessened I got dressed and went out, had lunch and went over to the West Side to see another documentary; this time about Sholem Aleichem–good, but not the most interesting thing I've ever seen. Too many talking heads, but I suppose there's not much else that could be done.

After the film I walked over to Whole Foods in Columbus Circle for some dinner and some nosh to bring to my next stop. Then on to the subway the GW Bridge, and New Jersey, my old stomping grounds. Ellen had a Stitch and Bitch for me so I could see many of my old friends. We did this every Sunday night for years so it was great fun to see them again.

Recovering

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At least I haven't been spending so much time in restaurants. Thursday morning Mary and I went out to the botanic garden in the Bronx. The well-advertised exhibit wasn't so spectacular, but the Poet's Walk and the lily pond were spectacular. Here is a photo of someone doing a tricky bit of photography. Just imagine if the camera dropped into the water.

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I don't know if the other photographer found it as amusing as I did.

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We had lunch at the garden, but most of our visiting was done walking around–my doctor would approve.

Dinner was a long visit with Jean at another restaurant, but I've been sticking to salads.

Friday was a real walking day. Phyllis and I went up on the High Line. This is a real winner. The city converted an old railroad track into a long, skinny park. It's a great place: you can see into back yards, roof gardens and other usually hidden places.

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Here the tracks remain, but the ties are covered with something that makes for easy walking.

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The path rose above the tracks, visible below, and everything is landscaped beautifully.

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This time we had a large, late lunch. After I got back to the apartment, worn out, I had a very small dinner alone. 

No dates today so I went down to Union Square by myself. I was going to go out to Brooklyn to a Saturday event called a Smorgasburg–more food–but opted instead for a street fair in the village. Bought more earrings, and a Mozzarepa for lunch; wandered through the green market in Union Square then over to Lincoln Center, hoping to get a ticket for War Horse. No luck. Looked at quilts at the folk art museum, walked over to Lee's Art Supply to check for more paper; finally got a bus and I'm vegging out at the apartment. 

I'm worried: if I can't get through three weeks in NY, how will I do six weeks in Japan next year. Maybe it's the heat.

Movable Feasts

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You have to look at this picture very carefully to see why it stopped me. Look near the black shoes.

Maintaining friendships involves sitting at a table and talking and eating. The last two days have been an intense round of visits with old friends, usually sitting over coffee or something else I shouldn't have. Tuesday morning I met J in the art books at the Strand, which is so large we had to specify a section. From there, talking all the time, we went to a small Israeli restaurant where we sipped fresh squeezed orange juice until the lunchtime crowd came in and needed our seats. We went across the street to the less crowded Au Bon Pain and sat for another hour or two over coffee and soup. I usually eat, but wasn't hungry then. Finally J walked back to the Strand with me so I could continue looking at books and we said goodby.

I managed to get out with only one book and went up to meet another J, Julia, at the Whole Foods at Columbus Circle, starving by this time. Julia got a table while I bought food. We kept that one from four until six thirty, buying a little more as the spirit moved us. Finally I couldn't sit anymore and we walked over to Lincoln Center where we hung out again, until it was time for our eight o'clock concert. It was interesting to see the musicians so casually dressed for the rehearsal now looking very formal and dignified. This was an all Mozart program with the Jupiter Symphony and two choral pieces. Very nice.

Wednesday I met Sybille back at the Film Forum for another documentary; this time about Anselm Kiefer. Many years ago I was awestruck by a large Kiefer painting, Ordnung das Engels, at the Art Institute of Chicago. (It doesn't seem to be there any more.) Since then I have sought out his work wherever I could find it, but nothing had the power of that first experience. The film didn't either. Exhausted by the over long film, and hungry, we went looking for something decadent for lunch. We found Rocco's cheesecake first, but decided it was too decadent for starters so we walked across the street to Amy's Bread, where we had soup and some amazing seeded rolls. Then we went back to Rocco's for the Italian cheesecake, which is not as decadent (read cream cheese) as their American version. Of course, more talk and more coffee.

I returned to the apartment just in time to sit down for 10 minutes, then off to another restaurant to meet C and her niece: lots more talk, salad, no coffee. Two great days.

Sunday, Monday

I said goodby to Renee, who should be in Ireland by now, and  went down to Chinatown to a Chinese festival in Columbus Park. I expected lots of vendors, like a typical NY street fair, but I guess the entrenched vendors didn't want competition, so there was lots of gambling and game playing, cards and checkers but no mah jong, and a charming small orchestra, the Street Classical Music Ensemble. I thought I was videoing them, but can't seem to play it here. You may get to see it when I return to a higher level of technology. 

I walked from Chinatown to Soho to the Film Forum and saw a documentary about El Bulli, the famous Spanish restaurant. I had heard many wonderful things about it, but after watching the film I realized I would have hated it, even if I could have afforded to go there. I love to eat, and I love trying all kinds of different foods, but this restaurant was more interested in providing emotion and excitement, not so much food. It was described as avant garde. I think avant garde food would trouble me even more than avant garde art. 

This morning I went to the tip of Manhattan and walked first to the World Trade Center site. Here is what I saw–reflected in the windows of the hotel across the street.

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Then actually focused on the site.
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Continuing down Broadway I went into Century 21 and bought a set of three pairs of earrings for $10. I forgot to bring some with me and felt naked all week. Then I found a block full of food trucks and got a wonderful falafel sandwich, which I ate in a little park. Then I went to one of my favorite museums in Manhattan: the American Indian Museum at the Custom House. They have a great exhibit called "The Infinity of Nations"–a survey of the wonderful art produced by the indigenous peoples of the Americas. I enjoyed seeing it, but it seems to me there is great irony in producing an exhibition lauding the cultures and civilizations we have so completely destroyed.

Me and Claribel and Gertrude and Etta

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Yesterday was Jewish Museum day to see a wonderful exhibit about the Cone Sisters of Baltimore and work from their collection of Matisse, Picasso and other modern artists. I was as much impressed with the sisters as I was with the art. Claribel Cone, born in 1864, became a doctor, Etta, her younger sister, was probably a lover of Gertrude Stein, before Alice came on the scene. A timeline about the family is here along with lots of information and photos of the pictures–a treasure on line.

At the invitation of the museum we took pictures of ourselves with Gertrude and the sisters. Mine is above, Renee is below.

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Music and art

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Friday morning we went to a rehearsal at Avery Fischer Hall for the Mostly Mozart concert to be held that evening. It was really fun to see everyone dressed casually but playing this very disciplined classical music. When the conductor and the soloist, Joshua Bell, came on the stage they looked like two teenagers about to make some mischief. Of course, everyone under 60 looks like a teenager to me lately.

Being a very visual person I was   enchanted with the look of Avery Fischer Hall, particularly the pattern created by the EXIT signs. Beautiful music and I am obsessing over a black and red sign.

We met a friend for a long lunch then walked down to the Museum of Art and Design where I particularly enjoyed this exhibit. There were a couple of interesting videos and some good dioramas. Almost like dollhouses it's fun to see large things made small, although the subject matter wasn't always charming.

I don’t want to write this one

I am not moving. I had sorted and packed most of my studio, thrown out or recycled an amazing amount of stuff, then signed a lease with my present landlord. So, what happened? My deal fell through. After four days of hearing nothing I was asked to make the offer a little better, but no counter offer was made. We added a thousand dollars. On the fifth day, deadline day, we were told we had a deal, went into the office to make application to the co-op, and were told no deal. The apartment has been on the market since last October, they haven't been paying their monthly assessment, but no go. There was an additional bit of nonsense looking at other apartments, but I came away with nothing.

I am slowly unpacking or putting the boxes away. I will keep looking, go to New York for three weeks next month and Chicago in October. Maybe I can think of other ways to stay away from here. Someone suggested I look for a place in New York. It's a tempting thought.

I took a break from my unpacking yesterday and spent the day working on another iteration of my tunnel book. I've got it all printed and all of the pieces that get folded are scored. Next comes the glueing and cutting out the centers. Pictures soon.

Russians, no Japanese, no new digs

Yesterday I went to a birthday party for my Russian friend/ESL student. It was a lovely party with many Russians, most of them US citizens, and several of us born-and-raised-here, Americans. My friend's oldest son made the first toast, the first time his mother could celebrate her birthday and Independence Day. He expressed his gratitude for the family coming here and for the opportunities they have found. These are not children. Both sons are adults who are making important contributions to American life. My friend, who has an MD and PhD could also make an important contribution, but, because of her age (70) and her language difficulties, although her English is progressing amazingly, this is unlikely. In any case, I was very impressed with the obvious appreciation for our country expressed by the Russians. I don't think this happens these days in all-American circles. This Russian family is exceptional, but I suspect we get much more than we ever give to them from most of the immigrants who come here.

I made another Birthday Book for my friend, which occupied most of my time the last few weeks. Just before the party I was told by an acquaintance that I shouldn't be collecting birthdates from the Russians. That this kind of thing was not part of their culture. It worried me for about 15 minutes, but I had received encouragement from everyone in her family and birthdates from most of the people pictured in the book. At the party everyone seemed pleased and told me it was a great idea. I don't know what to think.

Do you remember my great poster? IMG_1685 It sits framed, on the floor leaning against the wall, because I didn't want to make another hole in the wall just before I moved. Each time I walk past it reminds me I have now pushed two major events into the next year: my Japan trip and moving out of my apartment. Japan only bothers me a little, but not moving is making me very unhappy. I will be signing a new lease, which will have an escape clause in it, but it hasn't happened yet so I keep hoping I'll find something. Sadly, nothing new has come on the market in the last three weeks.

One small consolation for all of this is I will go to New York next month and spend enough time to see all of my friends, and probably all of the museums.


The week that was

Last Wednesday I took the Megabus to Philadelphia. Except for the fact that there's no way to get up and walk around, it's a decent way to travel. Of course, they leave before dawn, which meant I had to get up at 4:30, but it was OK. I met Renee in Philly and we went to the Chagall exhibit at the Museum of Fine Art. Very nice. We also walked around South Street; went to the Magic Garden, Reading Market, and Eastern State Penitentiary; staying overnight to do all of this.

Finally, exhausted, we got on another Megabus and went to New York, where I went to the Japan Society to see Bye, Bye Kitty, a really good exhibit put together before the earthquake, but entirely appropriate to the circumstance, and then spent time at the Met. I can't go to New York without spending time at the Met. Also went to visit friends who have just moved into a new apartment.

Robin and Steve drove in on Saturday and we had dinner with Steve's family: Renee, Michael and Rosemary. On Sunday Renee went to Boston to have a Passover Seder with Steve's sister, Robin and Steve moved to the apartment (musical apartments) and we had our Seder with friends in Teaneck. Our friends have a mixed marriage: he's Ashkenazi; she's Sephardi. The Seder is always a blend of their traditions, making it more interesting for us.

Now comes the bad part:

We were supposed to stay until yesterday morning, but I had a problem so my kids very kindly brought me back to Pittsburgh on Tuesday. Two weeks ago I had the implant inserted where my tooth had been pulled. It became infected, although I wasn't certain of it until Sunday. Monday morning I called the oral surgeon and got a perscription for an antibiotic, but it didn't seem to help. Feeling worse on Tuesday, with obvious swelling of my cheek, we drove back. Yesterday, I spent the morning back at the oral surgeon's. You don't want to know the details. I'm still swollen and not certain it's getting better. I am allergic to penicillin and tetracycline, and I've had bad side effects from levaquin. It makes it very hard for me to take antibiotics. They've been alternating between two arithromycins, but now they don't seem to be working. So I'm taking cipro, a levaquin-type, and keeping my fingers crossed.