Lovely Eighth Day

Beautiful day, today. The rain last night washed the air, the sun shone, the air was cool. I walked up (literally, it’s a hill) 96th Street to the Gourmet Garage. Heard lots of their ads on NPR over the years and always wanted to see if they were better than most of the New York food purveyors. Some time, when I have nothing else to write about, I’ll do a post about New York grocery stores. Anyhow, I probably won’t walk up the hill again.

I stopped there on my way to meet Howard and Sybille at the Museum of the City of New York. Sybille is one of only a few friends from my working days. We spent four hours there, looking at exhibits, catching up, discussing the exhibits, talking. I wouldn’t have believed I could spend so much time there.

One of my favorite things is the Stettheimer dollhouse. Stettheimer was an artist, with pictures at the Met, who ran a salon for artists in New York City. Some of the artwork in the dollhouse was created by artists who came to her salon. How romantic is that.

We spent most of our time in an exhibit about the Forward, a Yiddish newspaper begun in 1897 in New York. Filled with photographs, posters and blown up copies of articles, the exhibit details how the paper shaped the lives of Eastern European Jewish Immigrants and helped them become integrated into American society. The story was new to Sybille, and I was able to do some translating and add a little bit to the story.

We walked back toward the apartment afterward, and had dinner at Renee’s favorite Italian restaurant, Delizia. Sybille and I had a lovely risotto with pieces of steak and some nuts. Howard had chicken with mushrooms, looked almost like a Marsala. Very good, solid Italian; no "pink sauce."

Sybille and I never run out of things to talk about. We had lunch together almost every day while I was working. Never ran out of conversation then, either.

Whatta Day! Seven

It began in the subway; not that anything really happened. There was a beautiful couple seated across from me. Both African looking, the woman had high cheekbones and a wonderfully sculpted face. I wish I had the nerve to whip out the camera and take pictures of all the interesting people I see. She was nicely dressed, but I don’t remember the clothes. It was her face that held me, framed with long colorful beaded earrings. The young man with her was very black, nicely dressed, with a pleasant face. The extraordinary part was the watch he had on, seemingly diamonds with a heavy gold band. I can usually tell real from fake; this was so unusual I don’t know. And I could not hear their speech to know where they had come from.

Then a woman came into the car and began speaking in a loud voice. "I don’t sing, and I don’t dance, but I am HIV positive and I need your help to get something to eat. Anything at all, dollar bills or change." She was not begging, just stating the facts; I really admired her feistyness. I contributed to her, but I was one of only a few. I guess people want begging and groveling.

I was on my way to Tribeca to visit Julia. I got off the subway at Canal Street and walked into Chinatown looking for the dragon fruit. It was gone from most of the stands that were selling it on Wednesday. I had to walk quite a way before I found a few pieces. Haven’t tasted the dragon fruit yet, but the fresh figs are delicious.

I walked west on Walker Street, passing two fascinating fabric shops where I managed to resist buying anything. I may have another chance next week. I just don’t know what I would make with a wonderful piece of fabric, to say nothing of all the pieces I already own.

I worked on Julia’s computer, restoring some data,  getting it cleaned up and recommending she get a new one. I don’t think anything is going to help this one.

We had lunch together at a new place called Turks and Frogs; lovely Turkish appetizers that we shared: red lentil pate, thick yogurt with walnuts, smoked eggplant salad and a kind of warm pastry stuffed with feta cheese. Great place! I remained at her office until the first rainstorm passed then started walking to the subway to go up to midtown for my dinner date. Does it sound like I’m always eating? Naw, I just like talking about food.

I thought there was a subway entrance on the south side of Canal Street, but when I got all the way to Church and hadn’t found it I knew I had gone too far. I stopped on the corner, probably looking lost, which I was, and a young Asian woman approached me. I asked where to  find the A train. She had a different agenda and held out a small packet of white powder in a plastic bag. Chinese medicine? She must have been desperate for a customer; I’ve never been approached like this before. Another man standing at the corner gave me the directions I needed. Everyone is an entrepreneur in New York.

Mike and Lois were coming from New Jersey to meet me. They hadn’t arrived at the restaurant when I got there so I walked around for awhile. Traffic was horrible. I was sure they would be late, but I went into the restaurant when I saw another storm approaching.

Sometimes I like Italian food if it is very good. One of the dishes described on the menu had "pink sauce" on it. Somehow, that left me very skeptical, but it wasn’t my party.

The food did not exceed my expectations; the glass of wine helped. After dinner we went to the Actor’s Temple, a synagogue founded by Mike’s grandfather. There were no actors present among the very small congregation, or perhaps I should say one bad actor. One man, who claimed he was a rabbi, started harassing the real rabbi, and making a loud nuisance of himself. Not a good way to begin Shabat, but an fitting end to this day.

Fifth Day

So much to remember. I feel like I should have been writing this as I walked around. There was an article in a recent New Yorker about some guy at MIT who was recording every detail of his life. I got the feeling he didn’t have too much life since he was spending so much time recording.

I keep thinking about how different New York and Pittsburgh are. I’ve gotten in the habit of greeting strangers as I pass them on the street. Pittsburghers do that. So as I pass each person I want to greet them, but mostly they don’t make eye contact. Of course, there are so many people here you could spend all of your time saying hello. I have noticed, though, that people women my age will smile and sometimes say hello. We elders have to stick together.

I began the day in Chinatown to meet Shirley Sun. I got there early and wandered around Canal Street. The fish are beautiful and so are the fruit and vegetables. There was a new one today: dragon fruit. Shirley says it’s really called fire dragon fruit and she doesn’t like it. She also translated longans as dragon’s eyes and said we would never buy them if the name was translated. I wanted to buy a dragon fruit, but I can never buy anything when I am with her because she insists on paying. I’ll try to get back to Chinatown and get the dragon fruit and some wonderful looking raw figs that were for sale. I would do all my food shopping there if I lived nearby.

I met Shirley at the Confucius statue in Chatham Square, our usual meeting place. Our destination 27 Seafood Restaurant was too crowded so we went down the block to 88 Palace, neither of which have many western patrons. We had chrysanthemum tea, taro puffs, har gao and shrimp chung fun and lots of conversation. Her English keeps getting worse since I am the only one she knows who can’t speak Chinese with her. I didn’t say anything about trying to learn Mandarin; I could only remember two words while I was with her.

I left Shirley on the subway and went up to the Met to meet Jean. Again, I was early so I spent the time back at the Japanese art galleries studying the things I rushed through yesterday. In order to preserve them many of the objects are shown with very low light levels, making it difficult for me to see. Thinking about the things I want to look at in Japan, I wonder if I will have similar trouble. I would really like good, large size photographs, particularly of the folding screens, rakuchu rakugai zu, that inspired my trip.

Jean and I went to the Petrie Court, the expensive Met cafe, for tea. It turned out to be not too expensive and very pleasant and quiet, unlike the other Met watering holes. We each had a pot of sencha, a green tea, and split a wonderful lemon curd cheesecake, all with lots of conversation.

I met Jean at the Empire Quilters Guild, shortly after I moved to the east coast. We became friends almost immediately, she attributing it to our both being from the midwest. We have a lot of other things in common, also, both being more appreciators than creators at this time in our lives.

We sat and talked until closing. As we left the museum there was a big crowd gathered on the steps. Three African-American young men were talking to them and doing a performance of amazing acrobatics, one of them doing somersaults, or flips with his hands never touching the ground. Besides the incredible physical things they had a line of patter that was wonderful. The crowd kept growing until the entire area in front of the museum was filled with people, and they succeeded in collecting a lot of money, keeping everyone engaged, before they finished the act. You can see a similar performance here. I don’t know who they were but I can’t imagine they won’t do wonderful things in their lives.

After all that I had dinner with old friends, Phyllis and Tommy, with more great conversation.

Fourth Day in New York

I met Jane and Mary at the Met this morning. That’s the best of all possible worlds; friends to share my greatest interests. We spent time looking at paintings collected by the Clark brothers. Great art and a prime example of the foolishness of sibling rivalry.

We also spent lots of time talking, catching up on everything going on in our lives. I haven’t seen Jane for a long time; Mary visited me in Pittsburgh in spring. Mary and Jane are both fiber artists. Jane brought a fabric book she recently completed and I brought my two finished books to show her.

After lunch we went to the Japanese galleries. They have different prints on display than the last time I was there in April. I have to go back, alone, and really study them. I like looking at art with friends; it’s fun to compare ideas. But when I get serious about something, I want to be alone.

Mary and I went on to the Cooper-Hewitt. Jane had to leave us. We spent another hour or so, looking around then sitting in the garden and talking. I tried to pace myself today and did not get nearly so tired.

New York, Day Two and Three

Renee is on her way to Norway and I am here, alone, in the apartment. It’s more fun when she’s here, but I’m sure I’ll enjoy my two weeks in the City. About half of my time is already scheduled.

Yesterday was Dominican day in New York. We tried to go to a Dominican street fair, but I forgot the directions and we never got there. We wandered around 190th St. and Broadway finally getting on a bus to the Washington Heights I’m most familiar with: 175th St. and Broadway. We went to a Dominican steak house and had something called Mofongo, described as mashed plantains, on the menu. The mofongo we got had chicken and mashed plantains, and we weren’t sure what else. It certainly did not have the garlic that’s in the recipe I referenced. It came to us looking like it had been molded in a flower pot or coffee can. The chicken had been shredded, some of it so thin it looked like shredded coconut sticking out of the bits of plantain, which were not the consistency of mashed potatoes but more like small chunks. I’m not sure what glued it all together, but it was very dry. I like plantains, mostly, and I’m sure this dish has possibility, but not at that restaurant.

We came back to the apartment, then just before dusk went for a walk on the esplanade along the East River and crossed the foot bridge to Ward’s and Randall’s Island. Although it was very hot all day there was a cool breeze off the river as we walked. We finished the day with sushi and tempura at a nearby sushi house.

This morning I went to the Japan Tourist Office in Rockefeller Center and picked up about 2 pounds of printed matter, including train schedules and railpass info, that I had to carry with me for the rest of the day. I hope to make most of my arrangements for my trip to Japan before I leave New York, since it is most convenient to do it here. There is no Japan Tourist Office in Pittsburgh.

After the tourist office I went to Kinokuniya Bookstore, also in Rockefeller Center. They carry both English and Japanese books. As I browsed amongst the Japanese books I realized how totally impenetrable the language is for me and how unlikely it is I will ever learn it. All those squiggly shapes never seem to remain in my brain. What a pity! I’m told the language is one of the most difficult to learn because the grammar changes depending on whom you are speaking to. I would just like to learn the alphabets (3) so I could begin to read it.

I finished the day at the American Museum of Natural History to see the Gold exhibit. It was quite interesting; I learned a lot about gold I never knew before. But I had to sit down often and before I finished the exhibit I felt like I was walking on my knees. I suppose I’m being too hard on myself. I did a lot of walking around Rockefeller Center before I got to the museum, but I keep thinking I should be able to do more.  I plan to go back there to see the exhibit about mythical animals. I did not have enough energy to do both in one day, especially carrying my two pounds of paper.

One thing I almost forgot. I know I’ve written this before: the best thing about New York is encountering the unexpected when you think you’ve seen it all before. I began the day by taking the subway to Grand Central. Instead of walking directly out to the street I rode an escalator up to the Metlife, formerly Panam, building and wandered around looking for an exit. In the lobby at Vanderbilt Avenue I found a wonderful Richard Lippold sculpture I had never seen before: our globe enveloped in rays of sunshine. I took some pictures and you can see a not very good picture at the bottom of this page about the building. That got my day off to a great start.

Last night we ate at Sala Thai on Second Avenue. The highlight of the meal was shrimp in tamarind sauce with a special rice like a pilaf. Very satisfactory. Tonight we decided to go to a movie on the West Side. We took the bus to Columbus Avenue, then started walking south. At 83rd St. we found a bakery-cafe, called Columbus. It was modern cafeteria style; food was displayed in glass cases, you ordered, paid and took it to a table. We each had a selection of three salads and split a kind of cheese baguette. I had a roasted Brussels sprout salad, a multigrain salad and tuna with celery, raisins and apples. Renee had the Brussels sprout salad, lentil salad and sesame chicken. I could eat there every night.

After dinner we saw The Willow Tree, an Iranian movie about a blind man who recovers his sight (and loses his world). Good film, lovely views of Teheran, could have been better cinematography. Now we’re reading the Sunday Times.

New York, Day One

It was raining and warm when we left Pittsburgh yesterday; New York was raining and cold: 63 degrees. It actually felt good after all the heat and humidity. Today the air was washed clean, the sky an intense blue with no clouds and it’s still relatively cool. I walked over to the Metropolitan early this morning. It was amazingly uncrowded. Usually there are so many people on the stairs it’s hard to get in.

The first thing I did was go up to the roof garden, which was still cool and peaceful. The air was so clear you could see details on the buildings on Central Park West. I took a number of pictures but I won’t be able to post them until I get home, since I didn’t take the necessary cabling and I don’t want to put too much stuff on Renee’s computer.

There was an exhibit of Frank Stella sculpture, heavy kind of aggravating stuff more suited to a blustery fall day. I walked through the new Greek and Roman galleries. They are beautiful, but, much as I hate to admit it, I’m really not interested in Greek and Roman art. I think it’s not so much a matter of interest as of stamina. My legs won’t hold out for more than a few hours at a museum so I feel I must make choices about what I will see. African art is located next to the Greek and Roman and I find that more interesting. Actually, there is so much African art it could be a museum all by itself. Also looked at a charming, small exhibit called One of a Kind: The Studio Craft Movement. That one could have been twice as large and I would have been twice as happy.

My legs finally told me they weren’t going much further so I walked over to the bus stop. I don’t know how many times I’ve been at that stop and never noticed the amazing aluminum art deco trim on the building across the street. That’s the wonderful part about New York: it is so rich there is always something new or something you hadn’t noticed before. (picture to come)

A few last thoughts

I’m back home and just looked at my photos. This is the East River early in the morning taken from one of Renee’s windows. Newyorkdawn
If you look carefully you can see the Triborough Bridge in the background. I am very pleased with this photo. It’s one of the few I’ve taken that seems to capture a good range of light and shadow. Usually light doesn’t come out as I would like.

Pictures from our family seder are posted in a new photo album on the side. Take a look. Unfortunately I never got a picture of Rosemary, who is beautiful. I don’t know how I missed her.

Ronni Bennett at Time Goes By has her Crabby Old Lady. I said previously that I’m becoming a Crotchety Old Lady. I think I am crotchetier in New York than in Pittsburgh but maybe I’ll start my own rant and rave category. Not only did I bitch about the crowds at the Met, I went on to complain about something at the play. The finale was the driver who took us to the airport. He complained to me that he was waiting 20 minutes at the wrong address, like I told him to go to there. Then he did not help me put my bag in the car. I charged the fare and wrote on the ticket, "lousy service, stupid driver" and gave only a small tip. Renee said I shouldn’t have given him anything.

My bitching gets louder and more detailed as I get older, but at the airport I recollected an incident when I should have yelled loud and long, but as a 15-year old I didn’t know I could do that. We got to the airport in plenty of time so I walked around looking at the shops. Amazingly, there was a Brooks Bros shop, and I thought about my only encounter with Brooks Bros. They came to Chicago when I was 15. I decided I wanted a "made-to-measure" shirt that would be long enough so that the tails wouldn’t work their way out from under my skirt. I’m long-waisted and I always had trouble keeping tucked in. I thought I had finally solved the problem of looking neat.

I don’t remember what I paid; I’m sure it was expensive. The shirt was nice, but it was not made to my measurements and it didn’t stay tucked in. I never did anything about it. I never went back to Brooks Bros. I’m sure they thought it wasn’t important to please a young girl. It would be a different story today.

Wrapping it up

Charna came here from New Jersey yesterday and we went back to the Met. She and Renee went to Barcelona while I walked back to Japan. There was a large screen I wanted to study depicting battles over Kyoto from 1159. After lunch we all looked at the Tiffany show. The museum was even more crowded than on Wednesday, but both Japan and Tiffany weren’t too bad.

In the evening we went to opening night of "The Pirate Queen." It was OK; Riverdance meets les Miz light, with special effects. But I wonder about the meaning of opening night. After a month of previews, it doesn’t seem to be very special. We went because it was a convenient night for us, not because it was opening night. I suppose it just means that’s when the reviewers come.

Back to Pittsburgh and real life this afternoon.

The Met was way too crowded yesterday. I have to stop coming here on holidays, or forget about the Met if I come on a holiday. We saw the Barcelona show–lots of early Picasso, photos of Gaudi structures with an intriguing demonstration of how Gaudi solved the structural questions involved with creating his Sagrada Família, many fine Catalan painters whose work I had never noticed before and, most interesting, some early Miro, including a wonderful self portrait.

The trouble with going to such a crowded exhibit is all of the distractions: the woman with too much perfume, the young men who smelled bad for one reason or another, the papers on the floor that no one, including the guards, seemed to be able to pick up. I’m becoming a crotchety old lady.

From Barcelona we went to Papua New Guinea (where else can you visit so many diverse locales) to see an exhibit of spirit masks coupled with photographs of their use in dances or their place within a particular community.

Then lunch, also too crowded, then on to Venice, not as interesting to me as Barcelona, and finally Japan. Exhausted after all our travels we taxied back to the apartment and veg’ed out for the rest of the day.