Housekeeping day

It has been windy and threatening all day; sometimes I had trouble walking with the wind. It was supposed to rain but that never happened. Maybe tonight. I took my time getting out, finally going and getting some breakfast and walking around the hotel area. There are at least three shops selling beads and I found one place that purports to sell ivory. I thought that was banned. Or is that another whale area where Japan defies the world.

I used the day to do several things that needed to be done, like laundry. I could have gone for another couple of days but this was a good opportunity. I also needed to get reserved seat tickets for the train trips I will be taking. With the help of a website I wrote out all of the details–date, time, to, from and train name and numbers for the first four trips. I took all this written data, including asking for window seats, to the train travel center and painlessly got my tickets. I didn’t have to understand the ticket agent and he didn’t have to understand me or the English language. I will have to do this for four more trips, but I need more information about getting from Hiroshima to Matsuyama. Hyperdia evidently doesn’t deal with boat trips and that’s what is needed going from the island of Honshu to the island of Shikoku. I’ll stop at another tourist info center or maybe I can research it on line.

I am finding it very hard to be without my phone–not for calls–I’m not a big talker–but for information. My addiction is almost as bad as my addiction to food. So I keep looking for places I can use the phone. I am even willing to pay, but I think I’ll just have to get over it. Yesterday, at the tourist info center they told me I could use wi-fi in the train stations but I had to go and register. That was another place I went today. The train stations are massive and have all sorts of things in them: shops, restaurants, even art galleries. It sounded like a good deal. Well, it’s only good if you are in a hot spot; like in the tourist info center. I registered but I don’t think it will do me much good.

Finally, I walked over to the Ozu Washi Paper Store, a maker of hand made papers. It was nice, but I’ve seen nicer. Just as well. If they had something I wanted I would have had to return the day before I was leaving Japan. But there is a good paper store in Kyoto. That will be much more convenient.

March 17: Two flea markets and a garden

catMy first two trips to Japan, back in the 80’s were largely mindless. Most of the time I didn’t know where I was or where I was going. Let’s not even talk about meaning. I bought the cat, above, because I liked it. I didn’t know anything about Japanese art or folk art. I did know about western art, and I liked the cat. It’s been my favorite possession ever since. It bothered me that I did not know where the flea market was where I bought the cat. Each time I’ve been here since I’ve looked for it. I had a vivid memory of the physical space but no knowledge of it. Today I finally found it: the flea market at Yasukuni shrine. When I bought the cat the market was held on the paved driveway leading up to the shrine. Today the market is off to one side and cars are parked in the driveway. I went with the vague hope I might find another cat, but, of course, there wasn’t any. There was some interesting stuff including lots of guitars and taiko drums but I didn’t find anything interesting enough to buy.

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As I entered the shrine area I saw people photographing a tree. At first I thought it might be a tree that survived the bombing of Tokyo, which was possible from the look of the tree. Then I found out it was the cherry tree used to determine the dates when Tokyo celebrates the cherry blossom season.

Cherry blossom master

Cherry blossom master

Lanterns and shaped Ginko trees line the driveway.

Lanterns and shaped Ginko trees line the driveway.

Often things are not what they seem. I found out about another of those mysteries later in the day.

I was looking for breakfast from the time I left the hotel. I walked all around the Tokyo train station and didn’t find anything I wanted to eat. I walked around Yasukuni looking for something to eat. I didn’t visit the actual shrine or the museum, which I have mixed feelings about, because I was looking for something to eat. I found several interesting looking places outside of the shrine but they didn’t open until 11 am and I didn’t feel like waiting. I got back on the subway and went to the Tokyo International Forum for another flea market.

International Forum antique show

International Forum antique show

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This time I bought an obi I’ll cut up for a book cover. The price was marked 1000 Yen.. I didn’t argue; just gave the vendor a 1000 Yen note. She packaged the obi for me and after she handed it to me she gave me a 100 Yen coin. We both laughed. I guess I should have bargained, but this was more fun. Only in Japan.

Cows dressed up for St. Patrick's Day in front of the  JNTO Information Office.

Cows dressed up for St. Patrick’s Day in front of the JNTO Information Office.

Still looking for something to eat I walked a short distance to a JNTO Information office. I had two questions, neither of which got good answers. First I wanted to know why seemingly all the young women in Tokyo were lined up outside of the Forum, occasionally moving in great bunches. No good answer to that one. Second, I wanted to know if I could access a wi fi service on the train for one or two months. No answer but a referral to a service that might help. I find I can’t get along without the phone, even though I have no one to call. It’s all that information it gives me. Standing there and talking I got an answer to something I thought about but hadn’t asked because I thought I knew the answer. About one in four or five people here are wearing those white face masks and an equal number sound like they ought to be wearing them. I thought they were all sick with colds or flu and I would probably be next. I started compulsively washing my hands. Well, they are not all sick; they are allergic to cedar pollen and this is the time of year. I am relieved, but who would have thought.

After the info center I finally found a place to eat. Fortified, I got back on the train and went to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Again lots of that light green ground cover, but a great variety of trees and some very nice views. I also found out it may be normal for everything to look dry at this time of year. The rains don’t come for another couple of months. That bit is still bothering me.

All three of them enjoying the fine weather

All three of them enjoying the fine weather

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Full grown tree looking like a bonsai

Full grown tree looking like a bonsai

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Blossoms lit up as the sun gets lower

Blossoms lit up as the sun gets lower

Beginning to blossom

Beginning to blossom

Chicago Thanksgiving

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I am sitting in a temporary rental apartment in Chicago with Robin and Steve and friends from New Jersey. Because of having the friends here I have this sense of displacement: I can’t quite believe I’m in Chicago, but I know I’m not in New York. I wonder if this is the beginning of senility.

We had a wonderful Thanksgiving with Eli, Charna and three of his friends. The loft was much enhanced from its previous state that I saw last summer. The kids made most of the food with additions made by Robin and Ilana. We are all vegetarians (much more serious than me) so no turkey. I don’t miss it at all. The veggie dishes are much more interesting.

We flew in from Pittsburgh on Wednesday. I went to visit Betty; Robin and Steve went to the apartment and met up with their friends. Unfortunately, Steve had an accident and fractured a bone in his leg. So he’s on crutches and will be for the next three or four weeks. He’s having a lot of trouble sitting still.

Steve with bionic crutches

Good thing he brought work with him.

Wisconsin

The sky was overcast with a slight drizzle all the way up here. That’s ideal for a long drive; no sun in the eyes, no huge downpour to cope with. We stopped at the Kohler Arts Center in Sheboygan and saw three interesting shows. The drawing show and Carol Prusa show were both wonderful, but I particularly loved Emery Blagdon. He made what is frequently termed “outsider” or “”visionary” art: creations which come from the soul made by someone with no training who probably never terms them art or thinks of himself or herself as an artist. I would love to go around the world looking at this kind of art.

After another stop for ice cream we arrived in Sturgeon Bay where Anita and Kathy were waiting for us and we will spend the week. I am sitting and writing and looking out at Lake Michigan and listening to the waves coming ashore. Lake Michigan could be an ocean; there are no other shorelines in sight. I saw it when I drove into Chicago and followed it several hundred miles to get up here.

Yesterday we actually did some work. Sandy taught us about image transfer. Most of her techniques involved laser prints. I want to do it with inkjet prints and still haven’t found a satisfactory method. We have one more technique to try today.

I have taken lots of photos and can’t properly sort and handle them until I return to Pittsburgh. Here is one I took in the botanic garden just outside of Chicago.

More New York

In addition to the last two doctor’s appointments we spent time doing some fun things. Steve is a big Dickens fan. Before he returned to Pittsburgh, we went to the Morgan Library to see their Dickens exhibit: a really great show. The last time I visited the Morgan was just after their famous architect enclosed their buildings in a glass shell. It was mobbed with all the other people who wanted to see what the FA had done, and it was unbearably noisy. I hesitated to return, but this visit was quiet and very pleasant. We also viewed a show of Persian art and enjoyed J.P.’s original office and library. I would like to own all those books and have my own librarian.

On our last day Robin and I went to Chelsea Market and walked on the High line. This was Robin’s first visit to both places and she loved it. We walked the entire park on this beautiful, amazingly warm day. Before our walk we fortified ourselves with a salad and sandwich from Amy’s Bread. Also bought some to take home; not nearly enough. Maybe it was the bread that set off the alarms when I went through security.

I’m back to my usual Pittsburgh routine, taking Osher classes and looking for another place to live. Robin is continuing to make great progress.

A Going back day

The deliciously cool morning inspired me to walk back to the Jewish Museum to see some things I had missed because we went on a Saturday the first time. There is a wonderful, interactive, computer created tour of the two apartments of the Cone sisters. The tour was created from 37 photos taken within the apartments before the paintings and other collections were given to the Baltimore Art Museum. I was fascinated both by the look of the apartments, much classier and well organized than I expected, and by some of the strange views generated by the computer process. Although I watched for a long time I was never sure I had seen all of it. I tried some of the interactive features: a touch screen and the possibility of asking questions, but mostly I just let it run and watched it.

I went back to the Center for Book Arts, where I had taken Phyllis yesterday. They had a tunnel book in their exhibit and I needed to look at it again. You can see it here, but the picture doesn't really let you see the tunnel part of it or understand how it was constructed. In the exhibit it sat on the light box allowing the depth of the piece and more of what was going on inside to be seen clearly. The two wings fold in toward the proscenium arch; there are at least three layers of images behind the arch, and the enire thing folds up into a bound book. Very inspiring; I was glad I returned to it.

By the way, I found it much easier to walk around today with the cooler weather and probably covered more than 2 miles on foot.

Yesterday, after our visit to the Center for Book Arts, Phyllis and I went to Eataly, an enormous, expensive, Italian-focused, touristy food market/restaurant where I was able to get a walnut, whole wheat bread. Most of the time walnut breads contain raisins or dried cranberries. Every time I find a new bakery I look for walnut breads–only walnuts, no raisins or cranberries. I first discovered this in France, subsequently found it in Montreal, and a small restaurant in Eagle, Wisconsin, long gone, and, of course, other parts of Europe. It was lovely to find it here. I may go back tomorrow to get another one to take home with me.

Sunday, Monday

I said goodby to Renee, who should be in Ireland by now, and  went down to Chinatown to a Chinese festival in Columbus Park. I expected lots of vendors, like a typical NY street fair, but I guess the entrenched vendors didn't want competition, so there was lots of gambling and game playing, cards and checkers but no mah jong, and a charming small orchestra, the Street Classical Music Ensemble. I thought I was videoing them, but can't seem to play it here. You may get to see it when I return to a higher level of technology. 

I walked from Chinatown to Soho to the Film Forum and saw a documentary about El Bulli, the famous Spanish restaurant. I had heard many wonderful things about it, but after watching the film I realized I would have hated it, even if I could have afforded to go there. I love to eat, and I love trying all kinds of different foods, but this restaurant was more interested in providing emotion and excitement, not so much food. It was described as avant garde. I think avant garde food would trouble me even more than avant garde art. 

This morning I went to the tip of Manhattan and walked first to the World Trade Center site. Here is what I saw–reflected in the windows of the hotel across the street.

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Then actually focused on the site.
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Continuing down Broadway I went into Century 21 and bought a set of three pairs of earrings for $10. I forgot to bring some with me and felt naked all week. Then I found a block full of food trucks and got a wonderful falafel sandwich, which I ate in a little park. Then I went to one of my favorite museums in Manhattan: the American Indian Museum at the Custom House. They have a great exhibit called "The Infinity of Nations"–a survey of the wonderful art produced by the indigenous peoples of the Americas. I enjoyed seeing it, but it seems to me there is great irony in producing an exhibition lauding the cultures and civilizations we have so completely destroyed.

Next: New York

Didn't do much on Sunday when we got here, but making up for it since. First stop yesterday: an art supply store. I'm looking for a card stock, slightly heavier than the one I've been using but still light enough to go through the printer. Two of my scenes for the tunnel book have unsightly curves in them. I'm hoping a slightly heavier stock will fix it. Probably be better without so much humidity in the air, also. It was terrible the day I glued those together. So, still looking.

After the paper search I went over to the Rubin Museum. This is one of my favorite places, even though I resent that it was founded on profits from the healthcare biz. I looked at a nice exhibit about pilgrimages: Christian, Muslim and Buddhist; had lunch in the cafe, a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich on naan, really good; then went downstairs to see a film about Indian painting in the Ajunta caves. I seated myself and got comfortable and suddenly felt someone's hands on my shoulders. Looking up, I found my friend, Sybille–a lovely surprise.

I had not expected to come to NY until tomorrow and had told friends I wouldn't be here until the weekend. So we were both surprised. After the film we walked around looking at some of the other exhibits. Lovely day.

Today I decided to go to the Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Met. I got there at 9:30 as I thought that was when they opened. There were lines outside the museum stretching for blocks in two directions. It seems that members could have entered at 8:30, so I was an hour late, not that I wanted to get there at 8:30. Supposedly, members didn't have to stand in line. Ha! I was in line for almost about twenty minutes, finally entering the enormously crowded exhibit space. I looked at much of the show, but the truth is I'm not terribly interested in fashion and it was just too crowded. 

I walked out and into the Lila Acheson Wallace wing (she's my guardian angel), and sat in the peace and quiet of those awful, all red pictures by I forgot whom. Except for lines of people snaked around the museum waiting to get to McQueen, the other galleries were mostly empty. Went up on the roof and enjoyed the view, then toured the Japan galleries, also peaceful and quiet. The McQueen exhibit leaves on Sunday so maybe I'll go back again next week.

Robin’s Challah

One of the treats of my life is Robin's Challah every Friday night at Shabat dinner. I smell it when I come into the house, and it comes out of the oven just before we light candles and sit down to eat. It's amazing!

Last night she made a special challah, in honor of Purim this weekend, and I think in honor of being done with the surgery.

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This challah is stuffed with onion and poppyseed. I behaved myself and only ate a couple of pieces, along with the rest of a very healthy, well-planned meal. But I think when I am 80 I will ask for a whole challah, just for me.

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I wish I could give you a piece.

Some days are good

Some are not. That seems to happen more and more as I get older. I heard Yo Yo Ma on Studio 360 this morning talking about his cello. He said humidity is different every day; cellos and human bodies are different every day. I really understand that.

Today is supposed to be the last great day we will have for awhile. It's truly beautiful out: sunshine, blue skies, not too warm. I've been walking for three and a half hours. First stop–health club. Since I faded out Wednesday, I've been more careful. Went again on Saturday but stopped after treadmill and rowing. I was feeling OK; just didn't feel like pushing it. Finished the workout this morning then kept walking. Took a book back to the library, went to Whole Foods for lunch, browsed in Borders, stopped for chocolate ice cream on Highland Avenue, then went to the Orchid Show in Mellon Park, finally back home. Altogether, I walked about four miles. I'm tired, my feet hurt but otherwise I'm fine. It's a great day.

Alice and Mage: I have discussed with the doctor the problem of determining how sick I am. Unfortunately, outside of collapsing or passing out, there are no black and white symptoms. So, it remains a matter of my judgment.