Rainy, gray eleventh day

I came prepared for very hot weather here and have been delighted by the cool, pleasant days. This day is the exception; it’s raining and in the fifties. I can’t really complain. When I left the apartment before 8, with Renee’s raincoat, it was really not unpleasant walking in the rain. This was the only way I was going to see Rose– meet her for breakfast. I came back to the apartment, afterward, and tried to motivate myself to go out again before my dinner date.

After a lunch of the left-overs from the previous night’s dinner, more multigrain salad and pear and endive salad from Columbus, I went back to the Met, along with every tourist in the city. What a madhouse! Seeking less crowded spaces, I went to one of the temporary exhibitions I overlooked in previous visits: Neo Rauch. I don’t know what to say about this one; undoubtedly some of the most confusing art I’ve ever seen. Rauch is from the former East Germany, and his paintings contain associations that are completely mysterious to me.

Also sparsely populated, the Indian, Chinese and Korean  galleries kept me busy for another hour or so. My legs won’t tolerate more than a couple hours of museum viewing at any one time. Finally I got back on the crosstown bus and went over to 86th and Broadway in pursuit of Harry’s Shoes. Not my favorite place but buying shoes when my feet hurt is my favorite activity.

I want to remember not to return to Harry’s Shoes, ever. This is without doubt a place where I was most invisible. I had a hard time getting someone to wait on me; they all looked through me. Finally I tried on two pairs of shoes. I might have bought one of them, but my salesman disappeared, so I just walked out. I’m sure he thought I was a terrible old lady; I thought he was a terrible salesman. Harry, I hope you read this.

I met Ilana at 116th and Broadway, the main entrance to Columbia. She is working on a PhD at JTS, next to Columbia. She showed me around JTS and Union Theological Seminary, and then we went to dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant. Lovely day, in spite of the rain.

Tenth day and holding

I’m still seeing friends and going to museums, but I took time out for an important appointment. Since this is my second year in Pittsburgh I decided I ought to have all of my health needs met in Pittsburgh. Giving up most of my New Jersey doctors was easy; I’d been doing that every other year, anyway. But my eyes were another matter, since they are the most important part of my body and the most problematic.

My New York eye doctor gave me a good recommendation in Pittsburgh; I’m very satisfied. The only person I hadn’t transitioned (love that word) was my contact lens practitioner. I love the doctor I’ve been seeing here in New York. She has spent many hours getting the lenses just right. But, I decided I ought to have someone in Pittsburgh, so I got a recommendation, went to the appointment and left with my gut feeling  that I should go back to New York. This all occurred in May; I made the New York appointment almost immediately after, and this was the day. I’m still happy with her and it’s a wonderful excuse to get back to New York at least once a year.

I met Laura for lunch after the appointment. We followed our long lunch with a visit to the natural history museum to see an exhibit about mythical animals. It was a great exhibit with a lot of interesting art, particularly from China and Japan. Although they gave wonderful explanations for how some of these creatures came to inhabit our imaginations, I sometimes wonder if, at least some of them might have really existed, and we just haven’t yet found any trace of them.

My Asian art class looked at a picture of a unicorn  created around 5000 years ago. Although very tiny, it was wonderfully detailed and comparable to an equally detailed picture of a rhinoceros. Why do we presume one is real and the other mythical?

I feel that way about dragons, also. They are so pervasive in Asian culture; why couldn’t they have been real at one time. Shirley Sun said the dragon was a creature of the mind. Unlike some of the discussions we have, there was nothing ambiguous about her statement. Too bad!


Sunday, Ninth Day

Nice cool, overcast day; didn’t start raining until I got back to the apartment. I met Peg on the steps of the Public Library, after taking someone’s picture in front of one of the lions. Tourists really love those lions. We walked over to Lexington Avenue to a street fair. I used to go to these street fairs often when I lived here, but after a while, they all seemed to have the same vendors. That’s still true. This one seemed to have even less variety. There were several places offering back massages, many vendors of "pashmina" scarves for $5, jewelry for $2, food, rugs, lots of handbags. The only new interesting things, jackets, coats and scarves of cashmere, hand embroidered in Kashmir, India. These were beautiful, for very high prices, cashmere or not. The only certain thing was the sweatshop labor that undoubtedly went into them.

The commercial Mozzarepa vendors were missing. I guess its time has come and gone. We finally found one stand that was selling what was probably a more authentic, but not as delicious version. We bought one, and split it. I guess my street fair days are finished. The Mozzarepa was always my big motivator.

The fair ended at 57th Street, and we walked over toward Central Park and people-watched from a bench across from the Plaza. Mostly we talked. I guess that’s what I’ve been doing since I got here–just catching up with old friends.

Lovely Eighth Day

Beautiful day, today. The rain last night washed the air, the sun shone, the air was cool. I walked up (literally, it’s a hill) 96th Street to the Gourmet Garage. Heard lots of their ads on NPR over the years and always wanted to see if they were better than most of the New York food purveyors. Some time, when I have nothing else to write about, I’ll do a post about New York grocery stores. Anyhow, I probably won’t walk up the hill again.

I stopped there on my way to meet Howard and Sybille at the Museum of the City of New York. Sybille is one of only a few friends from my working days. We spent four hours there, looking at exhibits, catching up, discussing the exhibits, talking. I wouldn’t have believed I could spend so much time there.

One of my favorite things is the Stettheimer dollhouse. Stettheimer was an artist, with pictures at the Met, who ran a salon for artists in New York City. Some of the artwork in the dollhouse was created by artists who came to her salon. How romantic is that.

We spent most of our time in an exhibit about the Forward, a Yiddish newspaper begun in 1897 in New York. Filled with photographs, posters and blown up copies of articles, the exhibit details how the paper shaped the lives of Eastern European Jewish Immigrants and helped them become integrated into American society. The story was new to Sybille, and I was able to do some translating and add a little bit to the story.

We walked back toward the apartment afterward, and had dinner at Renee’s favorite Italian restaurant, Delizia. Sybille and I had a lovely risotto with pieces of steak and some nuts. Howard had chicken with mushrooms, looked almost like a Marsala. Very good, solid Italian; no "pink sauce."

Sybille and I never run out of things to talk about. We had lunch together almost every day while I was working. Never ran out of conversation then, either.

Whatta Day! Seven

It began in the subway; not that anything really happened. There was a beautiful couple seated across from me. Both African looking, the woman had high cheekbones and a wonderfully sculpted face. I wish I had the nerve to whip out the camera and take pictures of all the interesting people I see. She was nicely dressed, but I don’t remember the clothes. It was her face that held me, framed with long colorful beaded earrings. The young man with her was very black, nicely dressed, with a pleasant face. The extraordinary part was the watch he had on, seemingly diamonds with a heavy gold band. I can usually tell real from fake; this was so unusual I don’t know. And I could not hear their speech to know where they had come from.

Then a woman came into the car and began speaking in a loud voice. "I don’t sing, and I don’t dance, but I am HIV positive and I need your help to get something to eat. Anything at all, dollar bills or change." She was not begging, just stating the facts; I really admired her feistyness. I contributed to her, but I was one of only a few. I guess people want begging and groveling.

I was on my way to Tribeca to visit Julia. I got off the subway at Canal Street and walked into Chinatown looking for the dragon fruit. It was gone from most of the stands that were selling it on Wednesday. I had to walk quite a way before I found a few pieces. Haven’t tasted the dragon fruit yet, but the fresh figs are delicious.

I walked west on Walker Street, passing two fascinating fabric shops where I managed to resist buying anything. I may have another chance next week. I just don’t know what I would make with a wonderful piece of fabric, to say nothing of all the pieces I already own.

I worked on Julia’s computer, restoring some data,  getting it cleaned up and recommending she get a new one. I don’t think anything is going to help this one.

We had lunch together at a new place called Turks and Frogs; lovely Turkish appetizers that we shared: red lentil pate, thick yogurt with walnuts, smoked eggplant salad and a kind of warm pastry stuffed with feta cheese. Great place! I remained at her office until the first rainstorm passed then started walking to the subway to go up to midtown for my dinner date. Does it sound like I’m always eating? Naw, I just like talking about food.

I thought there was a subway entrance on the south side of Canal Street, but when I got all the way to Church and hadn’t found it I knew I had gone too far. I stopped on the corner, probably looking lost, which I was, and a young Asian woman approached me. I asked where to  find the A train. She had a different agenda and held out a small packet of white powder in a plastic bag. Chinese medicine? She must have been desperate for a customer; I’ve never been approached like this before. Another man standing at the corner gave me the directions I needed. Everyone is an entrepreneur in New York.

Mike and Lois were coming from New Jersey to meet me. They hadn’t arrived at the restaurant when I got there so I walked around for awhile. Traffic was horrible. I was sure they would be late, but I went into the restaurant when I saw another storm approaching.

Sometimes I like Italian food if it is very good. One of the dishes described on the menu had "pink sauce" on it. Somehow, that left me very skeptical, but it wasn’t my party.

The food did not exceed my expectations; the glass of wine helped. After dinner we went to the Actor’s Temple, a synagogue founded by Mike’s grandfather. There were no actors present among the very small congregation, or perhaps I should say one bad actor. One man, who claimed he was a rabbi, started harassing the real rabbi, and making a loud nuisance of himself. Not a good way to begin Shabat, but an fitting end to this day.

Day Six for friends

One of the bright spots of working at my last job with a large magazine publisher up in Westchester, for which I commuted 70 miles a day across the George Washington Bridge, was a Toastmasters club, an unusually  interesting corporate club. I attended meetings and gave speeches the entire time I was working, and was club president for one year. The idea of going back one more time appealed to me.

I boarded a Metro North train at Grand Central and was picked up at the Chappaqua station by Diane, a former employee and continuing Toastmaster, who has remained my friend. I knew many of the people at the meeting, although the corporation has downsized and had a huge turnover. Everyone was pleased to see me; it was great fun, more appreciation than I ever got from people I worked with. (That’s another story I may tell someday.) Diane and I went out for lunch afterward and got caught up. She has become a successful realtor, a very different skill than she had been using when I first met her.

On my return to Manhattan I got off the train at 125th St. and Harlem. I wanted to go to an upper West Side branch library and found a bus outside the train station that took me most of the way there. Then I walked about 7 blocks from the bus–New York blocks, not even half a mile. It was an interesting neighborhood I had never been in before. (Pictures to come) From the library I returned to the apartment to catch my breath before meeting another friend for dinner.

It was hot yesterday, and more than a little humid. I have never liked hot weather; as I get older I’m finding it increasingly hard to deal with. I’ve been very lucky on this trip. On the whole the weather has been pleasant and even cooler weather is predicted for the weekend.

I met C. at Sharz, on 86th Street. She is the daughter of college friends and shares my interest in art. I haven’t seen her for several years. It was fun to get caught up with news about our families, her work and my play. Dinner was great: perfectly cooked salmon, green beans, basmati rice. Lovely evening.

Fifth Day

So much to remember. I feel like I should have been writing this as I walked around. There was an article in a recent New Yorker about some guy at MIT who was recording every detail of his life. I got the feeling he didn’t have too much life since he was spending so much time recording.

I keep thinking about how different New York and Pittsburgh are. I’ve gotten in the habit of greeting strangers as I pass them on the street. Pittsburghers do that. So as I pass each person I want to greet them, but mostly they don’t make eye contact. Of course, there are so many people here you could spend all of your time saying hello. I have noticed, though, that people women my age will smile and sometimes say hello. We elders have to stick together.

I began the day in Chinatown to meet Shirley Sun. I got there early and wandered around Canal Street. The fish are beautiful and so are the fruit and vegetables. There was a new one today: dragon fruit. Shirley says it’s really called fire dragon fruit and she doesn’t like it. She also translated longans as dragon’s eyes and said we would never buy them if the name was translated. I wanted to buy a dragon fruit, but I can never buy anything when I am with her because she insists on paying. I’ll try to get back to Chinatown and get the dragon fruit and some wonderful looking raw figs that were for sale. I would do all my food shopping there if I lived nearby.

I met Shirley at the Confucius statue in Chatham Square, our usual meeting place. Our destination 27 Seafood Restaurant was too crowded so we went down the block to 88 Palace, neither of which have many western patrons. We had chrysanthemum tea, taro puffs, har gao and shrimp chung fun and lots of conversation. Her English keeps getting worse since I am the only one she knows who can’t speak Chinese with her. I didn’t say anything about trying to learn Mandarin; I could only remember two words while I was with her.

I left Shirley on the subway and went up to the Met to meet Jean. Again, I was early so I spent the time back at the Japanese art galleries studying the things I rushed through yesterday. In order to preserve them many of the objects are shown with very low light levels, making it difficult for me to see. Thinking about the things I want to look at in Japan, I wonder if I will have similar trouble. I would really like good, large size photographs, particularly of the folding screens, rakuchu rakugai zu, that inspired my trip.

Jean and I went to the Petrie Court, the expensive Met cafe, for tea. It turned out to be not too expensive and very pleasant and quiet, unlike the other Met watering holes. We each had a pot of sencha, a green tea, and split a wonderful lemon curd cheesecake, all with lots of conversation.

I met Jean at the Empire Quilters Guild, shortly after I moved to the east coast. We became friends almost immediately, she attributing it to our both being from the midwest. We have a lot of other things in common, also, both being more appreciators than creators at this time in our lives.

We sat and talked until closing. As we left the museum there was a big crowd gathered on the steps. Three African-American young men were talking to them and doing a performance of amazing acrobatics, one of them doing somersaults, or flips with his hands never touching the ground. Besides the incredible physical things they had a line of patter that was wonderful. The crowd kept growing until the entire area in front of the museum was filled with people, and they succeeded in collecting a lot of money, keeping everyone engaged, before they finished the act. You can see a similar performance here. I don’t know who they were but I can’t imagine they won’t do wonderful things in their lives.

After all that I had dinner with old friends, Phyllis and Tommy, with more great conversation.

Fourth Day in New York

I met Jane and Mary at the Met this morning. That’s the best of all possible worlds; friends to share my greatest interests. We spent time looking at paintings collected by the Clark brothers. Great art and a prime example of the foolishness of sibling rivalry.

We also spent lots of time talking, catching up on everything going on in our lives. I haven’t seen Jane for a long time; Mary visited me in Pittsburgh in spring. Mary and Jane are both fiber artists. Jane brought a fabric book she recently completed and I brought my two finished books to show her.

After lunch we went to the Japanese galleries. They have different prints on display than the last time I was there in April. I have to go back, alone, and really study them. I like looking at art with friends; it’s fun to compare ideas. But when I get serious about something, I want to be alone.

Mary and I went on to the Cooper-Hewitt. Jane had to leave us. We spent another hour or so, looking around then sitting in the garden and talking. I tried to pace myself today and did not get nearly so tired.

New York, Day Two and Three

Renee is on her way to Norway and I am here, alone, in the apartment. It’s more fun when she’s here, but I’m sure I’ll enjoy my two weeks in the City. About half of my time is already scheduled.

Yesterday was Dominican day in New York. We tried to go to a Dominican street fair, but I forgot the directions and we never got there. We wandered around 190th St. and Broadway finally getting on a bus to the Washington Heights I’m most familiar with: 175th St. and Broadway. We went to a Dominican steak house and had something called Mofongo, described as mashed plantains, on the menu. The mofongo we got had chicken and mashed plantains, and we weren’t sure what else. It certainly did not have the garlic that’s in the recipe I referenced. It came to us looking like it had been molded in a flower pot or coffee can. The chicken had been shredded, some of it so thin it looked like shredded coconut sticking out of the bits of plantain, which were not the consistency of mashed potatoes but more like small chunks. I’m not sure what glued it all together, but it was very dry. I like plantains, mostly, and I’m sure this dish has possibility, but not at that restaurant.

We came back to the apartment, then just before dusk went for a walk on the esplanade along the East River and crossed the foot bridge to Ward’s and Randall’s Island. Although it was very hot all day there was a cool breeze off the river as we walked. We finished the day with sushi and tempura at a nearby sushi house.

This morning I went to the Japan Tourist Office in Rockefeller Center and picked up about 2 pounds of printed matter, including train schedules and railpass info, that I had to carry with me for the rest of the day. I hope to make most of my arrangements for my trip to Japan before I leave New York, since it is most convenient to do it here. There is no Japan Tourist Office in Pittsburgh.

After the tourist office I went to Kinokuniya Bookstore, also in Rockefeller Center. They carry both English and Japanese books. As I browsed amongst the Japanese books I realized how totally impenetrable the language is for me and how unlikely it is I will ever learn it. All those squiggly shapes never seem to remain in my brain. What a pity! I’m told the language is one of the most difficult to learn because the grammar changes depending on whom you are speaking to. I would just like to learn the alphabets (3) so I could begin to read it.

I finished the day at the American Museum of Natural History to see the Gold exhibit. It was quite interesting; I learned a lot about gold I never knew before. But I had to sit down often and before I finished the exhibit I felt like I was walking on my knees. I suppose I’m being too hard on myself. I did a lot of walking around Rockefeller Center before I got to the museum, but I keep thinking I should be able to do more.  I plan to go back there to see the exhibit about mythical animals. I did not have enough energy to do both in one day, especially carrying my two pounds of paper.

One thing I almost forgot. I know I’ve written this before: the best thing about New York is encountering the unexpected when you think you’ve seen it all before. I began the day by taking the subway to Grand Central. Instead of walking directly out to the street I rode an escalator up to the Metlife, formerly Panam, building and wandered around looking for an exit. In the lobby at Vanderbilt Avenue I found a wonderful Richard Lippold sculpture I had never seen before: our globe enveloped in rays of sunshine. I took some pictures and you can see a not very good picture at the bottom of this page about the building. That got my day off to a great start.